Smaller turkeys in demand for downsized Thanksgiving dinners, but hard to find
Usually, Susan Miner of Lancaster and her family would be planning to cook a couple of dishes and gather with other family members at her sister’s house in Gardner for Thanksgiving. But like a lot of families who have had large traditional Thanksgiving dinners, it won’t be happening for Miner’s family this year because of COVID-19.
Miner, who owns Bob’s Turkey Farm in Lancaster, with her brother, Richard Van Hoof, said with all the long days of raising and selling fresh turkeys and side dishes to hundreds of customers, she’s usually too tired to cook for her family on Thanksgiving.
“Usually on Thanksgiving I’m dead so we go to my sister’s house,” Miner said. “This year I’m going to cook at home.”
With COVID-19 cases skyrocketing, once again prompting Gov. Charlie Baker’s advisory that indoor family gatherings be limited to 10 people, Miner said more of her customers were looking to order small fresh turkeys, about 12 to 14 pounds.
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Pre-COVID, the 66-year-old farm that Miner's late father, Bob Van Hoof, started at 181 Old Common Road in Lancaster sold about 3,000 turkeys each Thanksgiving season.
Miner said she expects to sell about 1,400 this year. Half of the turkeys on the farm are toms, which weigh 20 to 35 pounds. There are a few hens that weigh 12 to 19 pounds.
But it’s the small turkeys that people want.
"With people not being able to hold large gatherings, people are looking for smaller birds," agreed Casey Townsend, executive director at the Natick Community Organic Farm.
He expects to sell all 175 of the farm's turkey, which is typical for the season.
Miner ran out of the fresh small birds the last week of October, something that has never happened before. Normally, orders go until two weeks before Thanksgiving.
“We do have frozen small ones. But a lot of people don’t want the frozen ones,” Miner said. “I don’t know how Thanksgiving is going to look for us as a farm. Am I worried? Absolutely.”
Spring Ridge Farm in Boylston also sold out of all 200 turkeys raised on the 50-acre property in October.
Owner Tricia May said there was definitely more demand for smaller birds as people try to figure out whether to just have a small gathering with immediate family or include a few relatives from out of state.
“There’s a lot of uncertainty this year. People are unsure what’s right, what’s safe and what’s potentially regrettable after the fact,” May said, explaining that people want to avoid “the call of shame” — having to notify guests that someone they had dinner with later tested positive for COVID-19.
May said her family also plans to downsize their traditional Thanksgiving dinner, from around 20 people, including family from Rhode Island and Maine, to six.
New, growing demands
Some salvation will come in halving some of the tom turkeys for customers to use part now and perhaps freeze the other half. Any toms left after Thanksgiving will be frozen and eventually used to make turkey pies, soup, ground turkey meat, chili, sausage and meatballs.
“That part of the business is booming. We can’t make enough product,” Miner said. “I think it’s because of kids on (school) hybrid model or (learning at) home. People want turkey pies. It’s convenient. You put it in the oven for an hour and dinner is done.”
Townsend is noticing an uptick in demand for local produce since people feel reassured by not having to go to the grocery store and worry about exposing themselves. They also get peace of mind knowing that the produce was not transported a great distance.
The Natick farm has a community-supported agriculture program that runs 20 weeks out of the year. Many more people took advantage of it than usual, he said.
Kate Stillman, owner of the 200-acre Stillman’s Farm in Hardwick, and SQM Butcher Shop at 157 Harding St. in Worcester, expect to sell about 1,000 turkeys for Thanksgiving, around the same number as last year.
A significant challenge that Stillman's is facing is a 2,000% increase in home delivery. Last year there were no more than 20 home deliveries. This year, there are hundreds, said Stillman, who had to add staff to deliver turkeys throughout Worcester County and as far away as Boston.
“I chalk that up to the fact that people are tired and stressed. And they just want to have a calm, relaxing day,” Stillman said. “Thanksgiving is usually a lot of pressure to deliver a big, showy holiday. Everybody wants the prized turkey on the table. You've got 30 guests and everything has to be right. This year, people seem to just want to gather with family, so the pressure is off to deliver the big Thanksgiving.”
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, in a Thanksgiving advisory, recommends that people consider holding small outdoor meals. If they are held inside, make sure to open windows. People are also advised to have guests bring their own plates, cups, and utensils, and avoid going in and out of the area where food is prepared or handled.
Canadians saw a significant uptick in COVID-19 cases and hospitalizations traced back to family celebrations at Thanksgiving, which is observed the second Monday in October.
“I think we have to be super-vigilant,” May said. “I don’t have time to be sick. I have hundreds of animal mouths to feed here on the farm. And all the families shopping here, we feel a big sense of responsibility to stay healthy and in business for them.”
Still eating turkey
Nearly 90% of Americans are expected to eat turkey this Thanksgiving, about the same as last year, according to the 80-year-old Washington, D.C.-based National Turkey Federation.
The United States, the world’s largest producer of turkeys and exporter of turkey products, raised 229 million turkeys in 2019. U.S. consumption of turkey all of last year was 5.3 billion pounds, about 16.1 pounds per person in 2019. That has nearly doubled since 1970, when approximately 125 million turkeys were raised in the U.S., and per capita consumption was 8.2 pounds. The increase is in part due to the demand for more turkey products, such as ground turkey meat.
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The top turkey-producing states are Minnesota, North Carolina, Arkansas, Indiana, Missouri, Virginia, Iowa and California, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
“We expect that the demand for turkey and turkey sales will continue to be strong this year. People are cooking a lot more (because of the pandemic). I think that’s going to continue into the holiday,” Beth Breeding, spokeswoman for the NTF, said Wednesday.
Breeding said local farmers may be running out of turkeys sooner this year because consumers are planning meals ahead and ordering turkeys sooner because they’re making fewer trips to shop for food.
With smaller gatherings planned, some people are buying smaller turkeys, or just a breast, or turkey legs, if they prefer dark meat.
“We’re still going to have a lot of people purchase the larger turkey for leftovers, especially if you’ve been cooking more and you need a break,” said Breeding.
The National Turkey Federation has heard of a lot of different ways that consumers are adapting their Thanksgiving celebrations. Some are planning multiple small dinner gatherings on Thanksgiving and subsequent days, Breeding said.
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“Zoomsgiving,” where families and friends in different locations eat while "together" on Zoom, is a popular trend this year.
Breeding said the NTF has created a kit with a Zoom background and a Thanksgiving-themed bingo game for families to play while on Zoom.
“It’s been a long year for a lot of people. Many are really looking forward to the holiday season. Thanksgiving kicks that off. It’s a good time to be thankful for all that we have and get into the holiday spirit.”
Cesareo Contreras, Daily News staff, contributed to this article.