After buying La Veracruzana in 2018 it didn’t take new owners Philip Pallante and Sunia Hood long to expand the brand. The opening of the new Easthampton location in July marked the first new site since the popular Northampton eatery added their Amherst restaurant 25 years ago.

With 75-plus seats, the new location is the biggest of the three, but otherwise has very much the same vibe. This time the eatery has juxtaposed its blue walls, Talavera tiles and colorful South American art against painted tin ceilings and hardwood floors in a successful blending of Mexican culture and traditional New England architecture.

Service at La Veracruzana could be classified as semi-self service, with food ordered at the counter and delivered to the table. The menu boards mounted above the service counter will feel familiar to regulars of La Veracruzana’s eateries, and printed menus are also available for those who need to do more than a cursory read-through before ordering. The staff at the counter and the adjacent bar are more than happy to start a tab for patrons who want to graze and/or embibe while seated anywhere in the large dining area, so we took full advantage by ordering appetizers and drinks and settling in.

Appetizers are categorized as ‘Antojitos / Cravings’, and we were most definitely craving some authentic options. We bypassed Nachos in two sizes and with several add-on options ($6 - $12.50) and instead went for the Guacamole with Chorizo ($8) and Queso Fundito ($8.50) as our tortilla chip dipping starters; as well as Platanos Fritos (fried plantains) as our third option.

The guacamole at Veracruzana is a thinner, more citrusy version of the usually thick, sometimes bland avocado dip we’ve experienced more often than not at area Mexican restaurants. The texture and bright flavor are due at least in part to the use of an admirable quantity of fresh lime juice, and we appreciated both the freshness and the lighter consistency of the dip, which was tasty and as a bonus made for far fewer abandoned chips. And having ordered ours with chorizo, our mound of guac was surrounded by a ring of finely ground, deep red, smoky meat resulting in a very successful yin yang pairing.

The salsa bar at the Easthampton location boasted six options on the night we visited. Although our party included more than one lover of sauces that rank high on the Scoville scale, we all agreed that the classic Mild and Tomatillo salsas featured the best flavor profiles. The medium heat and intense smokiness of the Chipotle and the clear beer flavor of the Salsa Borracha stood out as unique; and both the Diablo and traditional Hot salsa packed strong punches of heat.

The Veracruzana menu mix is anchored by a list of proteins that include pulled chicken or beef, grilled chicken, carne asada, pork, chorizo and shrimp as well as vegetarian options potatoes with carrots, cactus leaf that can all be had in the form of tacos, burritos, bowls and tostadas with budget-friendly pricing ranging from $5 to $12.50.

Specialty tacos also make an appearance and include De Lengua, or beef tongue, served in traditional fashion with cilantro and onion; original owner Martin Carrera’s namesake Fish Tacos; Mahi Mahi tacos with avocado salsa; and cod tacos with kimchi as a nod to fusion. All are $9 and come a la carte in sets of two to which beans and rice can be added for $4.

We ordered both the tongue tacos and Martin’s tacos, and each earned raves due largely in part to their perfectly prepared protein components. The tongue was flavorful, tender, and served in a rich, deep red smoky sauce; while the perfectly fried crispy fish was rounded out by cool accompaniments cabbage, tomato and cilantro all topped with a spicy mayo.

Veracruzana gives patrons a lesson in Mexican cuisine by way of their quesadilla options by correctly labeling cheese stuffed, flattop crisped flour tortillas as Sincronizadas, and their corn tortilla cousins as Quesadillas. Fillings include the traditional, zucchini-based vegetable mix Calabacitas, chicken, beef and chorizo.

The Platos / Plates section of the menu is reserved for authentic Mexican entrees including Huevos Rancheros ($11), Fajitas ($15) and Chicken Mole ($14), as well as several steak focused dishes. Seafood has its own section with interesting dishes such as Huachinango (red snapper with onions olives and cilantro), and Mexican Shrimp Cocktail ($14).

The Chiles Rellenos entree we shared consisted of a large poblano stuffed with cheese and smothered in enchilada sauce, and more cheese. The pepper’s ooey-gooey filling and the light,crisp batter adhering to the pepper made for a successful rendition of the dish.

The eatery has three constants on the menu for dessert: flan, tres leches cake, and churros. The churros came to the table piping hot, rolled in cinnamon sugar and drizzled with chocolate sauce. The four churros luckily equated to one per person in our party, as there may have been mayhem had we been forced to share the tasty sticks.

La Veracruzana’s full bar has a clear focus on margaritas and tequilas, but features a selection of regional beers on tap and by the bottle as well as specialty non alcoholic drinks.

Dining out

Name: La Veracruzana

Address: 31 Union Street, Easthampton

Telephone: (413) 203-5415

Website: laveracruzana.com/

Hours: Daily, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa

Handicapped access: Accessible, rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs

Reservations: Accepted