Pink isn't a color that comes to mind when we think of chocolate. But a new, smoky rose-colored variety called "ruby chocolate" made its U.S. debut at Central Market this month.
The chain is the only retailer in the country to sell a ruby chocolate line from Prestat, the London chocolatier favored by Britain's royal family.
In September, chocolate giant Barry Callebaut introduced the pink-hued chocolate with much fanfare at a global media event in Shanghai. The company developed the ruby chocolate as the "fourth type" of chocolate next to dark, milk and white.
Recognizing the strong interest in this new chocolate variety, Prestat added five ruby chocolate products to its lineup, all sold in pretty packaging.
What does it taste like?
The flavor of ruby chocolate is nothing like dark chocolate. It's closer to that of white chocolate, but more complex, with a bright berry note and tartness that's balanced by sweetness. Initially, there's a fleeting perception of milk chocolate, thanks to its milk powder content, but it quickly gives way to the fresh berry flavor.
Prestat's ruby chocolate labeling states a 47 percent cocoa content (cocoa solids and cocoa butter), which is considerably higher than the minimum requirement for milk chocolate. The mouthfeel is luxurious and creamy, similar to that of a fine quality milk chocolate.
Why is it pink?
With no artificial colors added, precisely what makes ruby chocolate pink is shrouded in mystery. Prestat's website states that the chocolate is made from "ruby cocoa beans specially selected for their exceptional color and natural forest fruit flavors." But there is not a genetic variety of cocoa bean called ruby, says Clay Gordon, a New York-based chocolate critic and the founder and moderator of TheChocolateLife on The Maven network. Gordon was among a handful of chocolate influencers invited to taste ruby chocolate when Callebaut launched it in Shanghai.
"Any cocoa bean that has a specific chemical profile can be used to make ruby chocolate," Gordon says. "Although there are no ruby cocoa beans — just as there are no milk chocolate cocoa beans or white chocolate cocoa beans — to make ruby chocolate, you do need special beans."
He explains that fresh cocoa beans can display colors ranging from dark purple to light ivory, with shades of pink and lilac in between. Normally, the natural chemicals in the beans responsible for their color will oxidize and turn brown during fermentation and drying, and roasting accentuates that brownness.
"Callebaut discovered a way to keep the cocoa from turning brown at every production step," Gordon says. In addition to using a shorter fermentation time, adding citric acid -- an antioxidant that's naturally present in fruit — preserves the pink color, he says. "[Citric acid] also contributes to the perception of bright fruity freshness, which is part of ruby chocolate's appeal."
Gordon thinks consumers should approach ruby chocolate with an open mind. "If you consider yourself to be a connoisseur of high-end chocolates where there's a direct connection between the maker and the farmer, this might not be for you. But chances are you know someone who will like it," he says.
Prestat's line of ruby chocolates at Central Market includes bars, champagne truffles and chocolate flakes. Prices range from $2.99 for an .88-ounce bar to $25.99 for a gift box of 10 champagne truffles.
Other varieties and brands of ruby chocolate have been released in the United Kingdom and Japan, including a ruby KitKat bar from Nestle. No word on when it will be available in the United States.
Tina Danze is a Dallas freelance writer.