15 Brilliant Emerging Designers To Know Ahead Of SS23

September is a crucial month for the industry. As always, a new season brings a fresh cast of talented individuals. And there are a multitude of names who are pushing fashion forward, whether it is the newest members of Fashion East, Karoline Vitto and Standing Ground; Meryll Rogge, with her deconstructionist approach to design; or Tokyo James, who fuses Savile Row tailoring with traditional African techniques.

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What To Expect From The SS23 Shows

By Laura Hawkins

Below, the designers you need on your radar for spring/summer 2023.

Tia Adeola

Born in Nigeria, raised in London, and now based in New York City, Teni “Tia” Adeola launched her namesake label in 2017, while studying at ​​Parsons School of Design. Since then, the designer has become known for an ultra-feminine, body-conscious aesthetic that’s loved by the likes of Sza, Gigi Hadid and Cara Delevingne.

Karoline Vitto

Karoline Vitto is well-known for her figure-hugging pieces that celebrate a diverse group of body types. She graduated from the acclaimed MA Fashion programme at the Royal College of Art (RCA) in 2019. The Brazilian designer is a member of the Fashion East collective this year.

Standing Ground

Standing Ground, a brand-new member of the Fashion East collective and the brainchild of RCA alumnus Michael Stewart, is generating hype with its avant-garde designs. Stewart takes an unconventional approach to design, making his pieces simultaneously sculptural and glamorous.

Feben

Feben, who goes by her first name only, has already dressed the likes of Beyoncé, Erykah Badu, Janelle Monáe, and Michaela Coel. The multi-cultural Central Saint Martins graduate has developed recognisable signatures that feature technical fabric dresses in the most delectable shades.

Tokyo James

The Nigerian-British designer creates gender-fluid suiting that uses Savile Row tailoring mixed with traditional African techniques and textiles. Their clever use of colour, alongside an array of textures, on precision-cut pieces is what sets them apart.

Weinsanto

Having previously worked at Y/Project, Jean Paul Gaultier and Chloé, Victor Weinsanto is no stranger to creating larger-than-life fashions. The Parisian designer has a knack for blending queer culture references with hyper-feminine silhouettes.

Elena Velez

Last season, Elena Velez caused a stir with her off-kilter collection on the New York Fashion Week schedule. With a penchant for bringing together artisanal craftsmanship with deconstructive techniques, the American designer’s pieces have already been seen on Solange Knowles, Grimes and Charli XCX.

Masha Popova

Masha Popova creates separates that are the epitome of the Y2K, cool-girl aesthetic, with a focus on denim separates. The Ukrainian-born and London-based designer will be showing for the first time on the London schedule this season.

Kimhekim

Drawing inspiration from ancient Korean costuming, Kiminte Kimhekim creates eye-catching garments that are of couture level. And with experience working at Balenciaga, the South Korean designer also has a talent for throwing in off-kilter athleisure elements, too.

Paolo Carzana

Nature, fantasy and craft serve as the inspiration for all of Paolo Carzana’s otherworldly creations (his last collection was an ode to Welsh fairy mythologies). Additionally, the designer – who is presently Sarabande’s artist in residence – makes everything by hand and it is all exceedingly delicate.

Paula Canovas Del Vas

Paula Canovas Del Vas, who launched her label in 2018, is showing on the Paris schedule for the first time. The Central Saint Martins graduate and Spanish designer has a flair for offbeat chic, showcasing pieces with a recognisable pointed motif, particularly on the footwear.

Meryll Rogge

Meryll Rogge, a semifinalist for the 2022 LVMH Prize, is renowned for her use of deadstock materials and unconventional design principles. The distinctive slip dresses created by the Belgian designer have become an unmistakable trademark.

Anne Isabella

Anne Isabella, a Berlin-based designer of Danish and French ancestry, adores re-interpreting archetypical pieces from the ’60s and ’70s. Despite having a taste for nostalgia, the designer’s creations are utterly modern and feature textural fabrications.

Sinéad O’Dwyer

Dublin-born and London-based Sinéad O’Dwyer cut her teeth at the RCA before launching her brand in 2019. By channelling the notions of body dysmorphia into her craft, the designer creates pieces that are as uniquely conceptual, as they are sculptural.

Rui

Chinese-born designer Rui Zhou is all about creating knitwear pieces that are not only body-conscious, but also detailed with intentional imperfections. The designer’s pieces are delicate to touch and intricately constructed.