Low-key luxury, as seen at Zimmermann
Gianluca Carraro / Launchmetrics.com/spotlight 'No make-up' make-up is a runway staple, but beyond putting artifice into looking natural, this season it's about confidently presenting the best version of you. The 'quiet luxury' of make-up, it's minimal but polished – think groomed brows, ethereal highlights and understated pigments. Such carefree elegance was showcased at Chanel, Stella McCartney, Erdem, Emilia Wickstead, The Row and Zimmermann (pictured).
Shiny lips, as seen at Tory Burch
Filippo Fortis Tory Burch presented another example of low-key luxe, and with it a staple for achieving the look this spring: shiny lips. Whether lacquered, glossed or balmed, reflective pouts featured on the runways of Feben, David Koma, Tory Burch, Prabal Gurung, Alessandra Rich, Balmain, Acne and more. It speaks to today's preoccupation with buff lips and how the new generation of lip products are not merely concerned with pigment, but plumping too.
Cheeky blush, as seen at Eudon Choi
Alessandro Viero After 2023's celebrity-fuelled strawberry and tomato-toned make-up movements, it's no surprise that blush is back. The mood for SS24? Sophisticated, with strategic placement and gossamer textures for a fresh, well-rested flush. Our favourite examples include those at Emilia Wickstead, Chanel, Zimmermann and Eudon Choi (pictured). Bring on 'poppy girl summer', we say.
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Burnt orange, seen at Blumarine
Alessandro Zeno Sultry orange was a stand-out shade on the SS24 catwalks, from apricot to rust tones. A spring-worthy take on pumpkin spice, it's a little livelier, while still smouldering. A prime example is the eye make-up shown at Blumarine (note how it's balanced with glossy lips), while at Prada orange eyeshadow was placed on the upper eyelids only, and at Ulla Johnson models wore the shade on their lips–or lower lip, specifically.
Cool blues, as seen at Cormio
Alessandro Zeno Another noteworthy eye colour was blue, in various guises. At Cormio it was silvery-toned; at Versace a '60s baby blue; and at Etro it was cobalt, drawn in graphic lines. With autumn/winter's move towards cooler – even frosted – eyeshadow, it's no surprise that blue is back.
Bold lips, as seen at Annie's Ibiza
Alessandro Zeno Bold lips, in varying shades of red, were a clear runway fixture (as they so often are). Schiaparelli, Alexander McQueen, Erdem, Saint Laurent and Annie’s Ibiza (pictured here) all had models showcasing richly pigmented red lips, but what felt unique to this season was how they were worn with minimal other make-up.
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Soft grunge, as seen at Givenchy
launchmetrics.com/spotlight If 'soft goth' was last year's alt make-up look (inspired by Netflix hit Wednesday, of course), 'soft grunge' is the 2024 version. Nodding to the '90s, which remains a core influence on the runways, it's about smudgy liner, natural brows and slightly pale lips. Dior, Max Mara, Tibi and Givenchy (pictured) all took part.
Retro wings, as seen at Moschino
Matteo Scarpellini Retro-feeling, while arguably a timeless classic, feline flicks of eyeliner never go out of fashion. But what makes them modern – as seen at Moschino (pictured) and Dolce & Gabbana this season – was the absence of bold brows and obvious mascara on the lower lashes. This low-key effect oozes a coolness that a more full glam look can't compete with.
Barely-there brows, as seen at Richard Quinn
Armando Grillo Speaking of brows, the bleached and/or barely-there look is set to stay. Representing a real overturn of the last decade's dominant brow trend (full and busy, that is) this disappearing act nods to the '90s and '00s revival. From Richard Quinn (pictured) to Brandon Maxwell, Annie's Ibiza and Edward Crutchely, the lack of focus on some models' brows was, ironically, very obvious.
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Twiggy lashes, as seen at Versace
launchmetrics.com/spotlight From the grungy '90s to the coquettish '60s, Versace presented something for other aesthetic tastes. The Pat McGrath Labs look took inspiration from the elegance of the era with nude lips and bold black lashes. It pairs beautifully with this season's chic hair accessories (think bold bows and pretty ribbons).
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