When to go

It rarely gets cold enough to snow, but a glühwein-scented Christmas market (1) – one of the largest in Germany – turns the Old Town into a festive wonderland in December. April brings warmer weather and locals celebrate by flocking to the Rhine region’s oldest and largest fair, the delightfully named Spring Dippemess.

The city lets its hair down during the long, mild summers with a string of festivals including an apple wine folk fair in August, a celebration of Frankfurt’s favourite tipple, which is followed by a conventional wine festival showcasing local producers. For details, see frankfurt-tourismus.de.

Where to stay

Located on the main drag in the up-and-coming East End, 25hours Hotel The Goldman (2) has an unmissable turquoise and orange facade. The décor is just as striking: the chic rooms in the west wing are inspired by local personalities, while the newer east wing has a vintage vibe. Doubles from €70 (£65), room only.

The a&o Hostel (3) is five minutes down the road and has four- and six-bed dormitories that double as family rooms, plus twin rooms with en suites. The communal areas are a tad utilitarian, but the rooms are comfortable and spotless. Twins from €40 (£36), beds from €12 (£11), room only.

All gleaming surfaces and gold trimming, Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof (4) is a historic, grand hotel slap-bang in the city centre. Standard rooms are old-fashioned but unfussy with marble bathrooms and there’s a sumptuous spa and Michelin-starred French restaurant. Doubles from €160 (£145), room only.

How to get around

Thanks to its financial clout, Germany’s fifth-biggest city has by far its largest airport, which is a 10-minute metro or rail journey from the centre (€2.40/€4.65). London to Frankfurt by train is straightforward: Deutsche Bahn does a through-ticket that includes the Eurostar from St Pancras, then a German ICE train from Brussels. Return fares are from €140 (£127).

The main sights are walkable, or you can hop on the efficient network of metros, trams and trains. Tickets are valid on all of them and cost from €1.85 (£1.70). A Frankfurt Card gives discounts on museums and unlimited travel on public transport. A two-day card is €15.50 (£14).

SATURDAY

Start the day

The quaint Old Town is almost totally fake – only one of its half-timbered townhouses survived the Second World War and it’s been rebuilt bit by bit. The pastel-painted streets next to the terracotta Gothic cathedral (5) were only finished last summer.

A salmon-pink, stepped-gable city hall presides over the cobbled central square – Römerberg (6). The adjoining tourist information office does English-speaking walking tours at 2.30pm Friday-Sunday throughout the winter (€15.90/£14.50).

Lunch on the run

On Saturdays, locals gather in Kleinmarkthalle (7) – an indoor food market – for a bite to eat and a natter over a glass of wine. You can find everything from fresh seafood to sweet treats, but the biggest queue is always for the plump wurst from Frau Schreiber’s hole-in-the-wall. Another popular spot for a hot dog and a Riesling is the farmers’ market in Konstablerwache square (8).

Hit the shops

Pedestrianised Zeil street (9) has international high street chains, seven-floor Galeria Kaufhof (Germany’s John Lewis) and the futuristic MyZeil mall, where you can ride Europe’s longest indoor escalator. Bankers are more likely to be found browsing nearby Goethestrasse (10) – dubbed “luxury lane”.

Don’t miss

Frankfurt sits astride the River Main and the south bank is lined with museums and the grandest is the Städel art museum (11) (€16/£14.50). Its world-class collection spans seven centuries and is crammed with the likes of Rembrandt, Renoir and Picasso. A Van Gogh retrospective opens in late October and runs until mid-February. For a cavernous contrast, check out the MMK Museum of Modern Art (12): a pink-and-white wedge with a labyrinthine layout, dubbed “the piece of cake” (€12/£11).

Time for a drink

The hip neighbourhood Brückenviertel lies just south of the Städel and Museum Embankment. Among the cool boutiques and laidback cafes is Weinstube (13), a friendly wine bar where punters can sample a huge selection of German vintages before ordering a glass from €5.

Dinner reservation

A couple of streets away, you can step back in time in rustic apple wine pubs such as Affentor Schaenke (14). The eye-wateringly tart, cider-like tipple is served in earthenware jugs and soaked up with hearty fare. Only the strong of stomach should order “hand cheese with music” – sour cheese marinated in oil, vinegar and onions. A safer option is “green sauce”: a creamy, seven-herb sauce served with hardboiled eggs or schnitzel.

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SUNDAY

Go for a stroll

At weekends, families, joggers and lovers stretch their legs on the path that runs along the north bank, the Mainkai. It meanders past the footbridge (15) to the Städel, the financial district – known as “Mainhattan” – and the Old Town. Couples affix padlocks to the iron footbridge that links Römerberg to the south bank, then throw away the key to prove their undying affection.

Lunch break

Keep walking east along the north bank and you reach Oosten (16), an industrial-chic riverfront restaurant with a massive beer garden that sits in the shadow of the European Central Bank.

Time to relax

The Palmengarten (17) is a peaceful oasis with manicured gardens, a 19th-century palm house, steamy greenhouses and a boating lake. Entry is €7 (£6.50). The café does a dainty take on Frankfurter crown cake – a buttercream and hazelnut-smothered sponge.

Have a treat

The sleek rooftop restaurant and bar on the seventh floor of five-star Fleming’s Selection Hotel (18) has one of the finest views of Mainhattan and does mean cocktails.

Ask a local

“Berger Strasse is the longest shopping street in Frankfurt and worth a visit. As well as great little boutiques, there are lots of nice cafes, delicious bakeries, restaurants and bars with good vibes” — Harald Juengling, Bentley sales manager.