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Nashville, Tennessee is famous for its connection to country music, like the "Mother Church of Country Music," the Ryman Auditorium, and the dive bars of Broadway that attract both aspiring musicians and bachelorettes in matching pink regalia. But many of the celebrities and performers who say they live in Nashville actually live in Franklin, Tennessee, a laid-back community to the south of the city.
It's where you can still see big-name artists in small venues and “pickin’ corners,” areas in restaurants and stores where you can borrow an instrument for a jam session. International stars also come every year for Pilgrimage Music & Cultural Festival, held in, what else, an equestrian park. Franklin also has deep history, and is home to major Civil War battles and now a statue depicting United States Colored Troops soldiers as part of a program that aims to tell the fuller picture of African American life in the U.S. before and after the war.
Visitors can even bypass Nashville entirely, spending their time in the area thanks to the new Southall Farm & Inn, a rural resort on over 300 acres of farmland with guest rooms and cottages, luxury dining, and an onsite spa. It’s set in the rolling hills outside of town but has easy access to shops and restaurants. One thing is certain: there’s never been a better time to visit Franklin, Tennessee.
Getting there
Nashville International Airport is the best way to reach Franklin, with flights daily from major US cities. From there, it’s a 40-minute drive into town. If you don’t want to rent a car, you can take a taxi or ride share. If you’ve got plenty of time, drive the Natchez Trace Parkway, which runs between Natchez, Mississippi and Nashville. It’s one of the most scenic drives in the country and the section near Franklin is stunning. Make sure to stop by the iconic double-arch Natchez Trace Parkway Bridge.
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What to do
Get your bearings by joining a walking tour, which sets the stage with Franklin’s history. Franklin Walking Tours has a Fierce Females tour, which highlights noted residents like the suffragettes that helped earn voting rights for women and the town’s first female mayor. The aforementioned music venues, including Kimbro’s Pickin’ Parlor and Fox and Locke in Leiper’s Fork, can’t be missed as the likes of Wynonna Judd and Chris Stapleton have been known to drop by for impromptu shows. It’s also a good time to keep an eye on rising stars before they get signed.
While Kentucky is known for its whiskey, Tennessee also has a long tradition of making brown water, starting with a famous man named Jack in Lynchburg in the 1800s. But more recently, the first distilleries to open since Prohibition were thanks to the legislative efforts of Heath Clark, whose distillery, Company Distilling in nearby Thompson’s Station, is a highlight of the Tennessee Whiskey Trail.
Franklin’s independent stores are another part of the appeal. Owned by Hank Williams’ granddaughter, White’s Mercantile sells a curated mix of home decor, gifts, and accessories. Franklin Road Apparel specializes in high quality clothing for men and women, including soft vintage-style shirts and denim. Read up on Franklin’s history with a title from Landmark Booksellers or buy an album from one of Tennessee’s incredible musicians at Carpe Diem Records.
Where to eat
The best place to start the day is with a cup of coffee. Honest Coffee Roasters set up shop in The Factory, a former 1929 stove factory. The walls are covered in maps and nods to “Honest Abe” while the bookshelves have titles by Lonely Planet, also headquartered in the building. You’ve probably heard of “Nashville hot chicken,” but the dish isn’t limited to the city limits. At Bishop’s Meat and Three, you can enjoy the fiery fowl, along with Southern favorites like turnip greens and macaroni and cheese. The 1876 pharmacy is now Gray’s on Main, a restaurant and music venue with plenty of Tennessee whiskey, along with top notch steaks, fried chicken, and the addictive pimento cheese biscuits. At Culaccino, you can watch your meal be prepared in the open kitchen, as the pizza dough, which is fermented for 72-hours, is gracefully tossed into the wood-fired oven. The menu also features house-made pasta and paninis highlighting local provisioners.
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Where to stay
The past few years has cemented Franklin’s reputation for being a destination in its own right with the opening of a number of hotel properties. Southall Farm & Inn is the latest, a resort complex set on 325 acres of rolling hills and farmland. But if you’re thinking rustic, think again. Southall has 62 luxury guest rooms and 16 private cottages, a spa, hiking trails, and three dining outlets led by Chef Tyler Brown, who made a name for himself in the top restaurants of Charleston and Nashville.
If you’d rather stay in downtown Franklin, the Harpeth Hotel is a AAA Four-Diamond property with 119 guest rooms. Many of the rooms have balconies overlooking Main Street. The hotel has its own coffee shop as well as 1799 Kitchen & Cocktail, a fine-dining restaurant that highlights the area’s whiskey culture and hosts guest chefs throughout the year.
Franklin also has curated rentals ideal for groups. Pot N Kettle Cottages in Leiper’s Fork has five 1930s cottages that can accommodate up to 11 people. After spending the day exploring, relax on the wide porches with a cocktail.
