Hetty Lui McKinnon's artichoke 'lobster-less' rolls

Jarred or canned artichokes are a highly underused pantry item.

Available either brined or marinated in oil, they are silky in texture, with a robust, meaty bite that is very adaptable in weeknight cooking. Here, they are used to make a fun, hearty lobster-roll inspired dish.

Ubiquitous during the summer months in New England, Connecticut and other lobster fishing ports in America's north-East, lobster rolls feature the crustacean meat combined with a variety of seasonings. Depending upon where it's served, the lobster could be seasoned with mayonnaise or just an obscene amount of butter, and is then stuffed into a toasted, soft roll.

My veggie take is surprising – while it 100 per cent does not taste like seafood, the artichokes successfully mimic the tender, firm and succulent texture of lobster flesh, while also offering a tanginess that is light, refreshing and perfect with a buttery roll.

The mix of spices — celery salt, paprika, cayenne — is a nod to the sweet, salty, and spicy complexity of another American classic, Old Bay Seasoning, and also gives the artichokes a blushed hue that is undeniably reminiscent of lobster.

Tips:

• There are many ways to customise your artichoke rolls: If you want a richer filling, add some mashed chickpeas or diced avocado to your artichoke mix. Taste your artichokes before adding the seasonings, as all brands will differ in acidity; if they lack tang, you can add a tablespoon or two of lemon juice to zest it up.
• The artichoke mixture can be prepared a day in advance and stored in the fridge: This actually gives it time to relax and the flavours to meld and develop.
• The light dusting of furikake at the end is optional but it adds a certain hint-of-the-sea quality that is very apt: If you don't have furikake, you could scatter with crushed up toasted nori.
• Make this dish vegan by opting for vegan mayonnaise and butter and toasted nori.
• For the best textural experience, choose a soft roll: A brioche or hot dog roll works well. Don't skip the step of brushing the rolls with butter and heating it in a pan — this allows the rolls to get nice and toasty and the butter to really sink into the bread.
• Serve with potato chips, if you like:  this is a common lobster roll accompaniment in America.