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Florida travel guide

When to go, what to do, and why you’ll love it

The Miami skyline
The Miami skyline
GETTY IMAGES
The Times

It’s no accident that Florida is officially nicknamed “the Sunshine State”. Extending a heavily tanned limb out into the Gulf of Mexico, with warm Atlantic waters caressing its other side, America’s southeasternmost state is reliably hot year-round. But Florida isn’t just about beach-going and sunbathing — though both are remarkably good here. No other American state is as devoted to tourism; you’ll be entertained by everything from Disney characters and buzzing cities to heavyweight sports teams and the deep, wild Everglades. Then there’s the epic diving, fishing and sailing on offer up and down the Florida Keys — and the glittering presence of world-leading space tourism at the Kennedy Space Center.

At the heart of it all is a triangle of intriguing cities with direct UK air links: Orlando, with its sprawling theme parks and resorts; Tampa with its bevy of museums, galleries and golden Gulf Coast beaches, and Miami — “the Capital of Latin America” — with its elegant art deco architecture and intoxicating nightlife. From here, one of America’s most legendary roads, the Overseas Highway (US1), unfurls south, over 42 bridges and 100 miles of islands, reaching for the country’s southern tip at the end of the slender Keys: the colourful, barefoot bohemian outpost that is Key West.

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What to do

When it comes to things to do in Florida, most people’s thoughts immediately turn to the colossal theme parks and resorts of Orlando, officially “the theme park capital of the world”. Chief among them is Walt Disney World: an entertainment behemoth encompassing Epcot, Animal Kingdom, Hollywood Studios, Magic Kingdom and two water parks. Not to mention neighbouring Universal Orlando Resort*, with its own pair of theme parks (Universal Studios Florida and Universal’s Islands of Adventure) and explosive water park, Volcano Bay.

But beyond the hair-raising rides and jaw-dropping thrills of Central Florida, there are also breathtaking beaches to be discovered the length and breadth of both coasts, particularly St Petersburg and Clearwater in the Gulf Coast’s Tampa Bay area, and the sugary sand beaches of Sarasota and Fort Myers below them. On the Atlantic side, there’s a similar embarrassment of coastal riches from pretty St Augustine (the 16th-century Spanish settlement that claims to be America’s oldest town) down through lively Fort Lauderdale and Palm Beach, and all the way to Miami’s legendary South Beach. Here, three miles of dreamy beachfront is flanked by a phalanx of upscale bars, boutique hotels, restaurants and nightclubs.

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From Miami, the largest subtropical wilderness in the United States — the Everglades National Park* — stretches south and west for 1.5 million acres. Ride an airboat or kayak through the coastal mangroves and sawgrass marshes, join ranger-led tours to spot lazing alligators and playful manatees, or even camp overnight amid the quiet majesty of this dynamic wilderness, on sheltered camping platforms known as “chickee” huts.

Further south still, Key West* — shining like a bright pendant at the end of the Florida Keys chain — is another must-visit, with hedonistic Mallory Square sunsets and the fascinating Hemingway Home and Museum, where the American literary giant lived and worked during the most prolific years of his career.

Where to stay

Orlando is overflowing with resort hotels in a manner unseen anywhere else in the US (Disney World* alone has 27 themed hotels, nine non-Disney properties and a camping resort to boot), so if you’re headed here, it’s more a case of finding the best deal for your dates than scouring travel guides and brochures.

Meanwhile, Miami is awash with an entirely different kind of accommodation: flamboyant boutique hotels and gorgeous art deco grande dames, jostling for beachfront access in America’s ultimate party city. A good rule of thumb is to always check pictures of the hotel pool beforehand; some are little more than paddling pools, while others are little less than aquatic nightclubs. Whatever your taste, you can’t go far wrong if you stick to the city’s time-honoured classics such as the 1 Hotel South Beach*, the Delano*, the Royal Palm*, the Setai* and the Fontainebleau*, where Sean Connery’s James Bond infamously defeated Auric Goldfinger at a game of poolside cards.

In Tampa you’ll find some of the best accommodation in the lively Cuban enclave of Ybor City — the achingly cool Hotel Haya* is a standout — while in Fort Lauderdale, you should prioritise the Central Beach area, where stalwarts such as the Atlantic Hotel and Spa* and Conrad Fort Lauderdale Beach* maintain impeccably high standards.

Food and drink

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For a relatively small state, Florida punches way above its weight when it comes to food and drink, particularly in the seafood stakes. Miami, of course, is renowned for its restaurants and bars, with Ocean Drive the epicentre of the action, but Coral Gables and Little Havana are both hot on its heels in terms of innovative eateries.

Tampa too is a foodie magnet, especially along the striking Riverwalk that weaves its way through downtown, as well as the superb selection of food options at Armature Works, a lovingly restored tram depot on the waterfront.

The Florida Keys — America’s real deep south — are yet another food-lover’s paradise. Sink your teeth into a slice of the islands’ signature Key lime pie and conch fritters and take your pick from the abundance of elite fine-dining options in Key West, including Hot Tin Roof, Latitudes and Louie’s Backyard.

Don’t miss

The Salvador Dali Museum in artsy St Petersburg is a rare treat for anyone with even a passing interest in surrealism, while a few miles south, Sarasota’s John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art — a pink palace containing 31 galleries — also deserves an afternoon of your itinerary. Meanwhile, on the opposite coast, the impressive Kennedy Space Center* handles the story of space exploration past, present and future and is a fun day out for aspiring astronauts of all ages.

A couple of hours’ drive north of the “Space Coast”, quirky old St Augustine with its Mediterranean vibe and walkable cobblestone core is well worth checking out. And while Fort Lauderdale is no longer the party town of popular imagination, it has evolved a decidedly more sophisticated cultural scene.

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If you’re headed down to the Florida Keys, don’t miss the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park* at Key Largo. Dive or snorkel along the most extensive coral reef in the continental US, before enjoying the tranquil accommodation options of the mid-Keys: two hours’ drive and a world away from the rambunctious nightlife of Key West’s infamous Duval Street.

Know before you go

If you’re flying from the UK to Orlando, Tampa International Airport is often a cheaper and certainly more stress-free option — and it’s a little over an hour’s drive from the main theme parks itself.

When choosing what time of year to visit Florida, bear in mind that June to November is hurricane season, with a possibility of storms throughout the state. Meanwhile, Orlando and all points south (aka subtropical Florida) experience a mild season from October to April — with warm temperatures and low humidity — when prices are typically higher. The same period is considered off-peak north of Orlando, even though daytime temperatures are still comfortable; there are often bargains to be had at this time in Jacksonville, St Augustine and Daytona Beach.

Take me there

Inspired to visit Florida but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui* and Virgin Holidays*.

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