After a couple of pivots, Sandpiper has settled in comfortably in La Jolla Shores

Over the past nine months, the restaurant space at 2259 Avenida de la Playa in La Jolla Shores has undergone many changes, including a new name, a new concept and look, a chef change and newly expanded hours of service.

But judging from the happy and locals-heavy crowds turning out these days at Sandpiper Wood Fired Grill & Oysters, as well as the quality of the food and service I experienced on a recent visit, the need for change is done. Sandpiper has become a hometown favorite and a hidden gem for visitors like myself from outside the La Jolla area, with free parking and walk-ins cheerfully accepted.

The crispy shrimp starter plate at Sandpiper Wood Fired Grill & Oysters in La Jolla Shores.

(Pam Kragen/The San Diego Union-Tribune)

Last summer, Sandpiper took over the space formerly occupied by Galaxy Tacos, a casual but gourmet tacqueria that opened in 2015 and closed in November 2021.

George Hauer and chef Trey Foshee (co-owners of George’s at the Cove) were the founders of Galaxy Tacos, but they decided to close it 18 months ago because the high cost of labor and ingredients made the economic model for the restaurant no longer viable.

After surveying the needs of the community early last year, Hauer and Foshee came up with the Sandpiper concept, which mixes a fresh oyster program with Santa Maria-style wood-grilled seafood, land proteins and vegetables, and an international wine and Champagne list.

After launching Sandpiper’s original menu, founding chef Christina Rivera moved on last fall. In her absence, her on-site culinary team moved up. Marty Fay is now Sandpiper’s executive chef, his wife Jessica Valero Cervera is the pastry chef, and Cody Smith is not only the new sous chef, he also rooms with Fay and Cervera (Smith and Fay have been friends since childhood).

A burger, tacos,salad, soup and other items at Sandpiper Wood Fired Grill & Oysters in La Jolla Shores.

(Courtesy of Sandpiper)

The restaurant’s extensive wine list is a big draw for locals, who filled the dining room on a recent evening, greeting friends at other tables. The list — heavy on French, Italian and Californian wines — was curated by sommelier Evan Vallee, who is also the restaurant’s general manager. He is one of just 10 advanced sommeliers in San Diego.

To help build a loyal clientele, Sandpiper offers a $60 slow-grilled prime rib with skillet potato special on Friday and Saturday nights only. The restaurant is also now offering periodic six-course wine-pairing chef’s table dinners co-created by Fay and Vallee.

Oysters and Champagne at Sandpiper Wood Fired Grill & Oysters.

(Courtesy of Sandpiper)

The dinner menu offers traditional plated entrees, but it’s more fun to graze with a friend in a small-plates style to try out more options.

Some of the restaurant’s don’t-miss dishes on the current dinner menu are the Crispy Shrimp, with lightly tempura-fried shrimp with spicy Sichuan chili aioli, sesame seeds and scallions; the skillet corn cake with spicy matcha agave; the charred cabbage with Calabrian chili butter; the grilled octopus with avocado and charred kale salad and burnt habanero salsa; and the Korean-style Angus tri-tip bo ssam.

Lunch service was added last week on Wednesdays through Saturdays, with the flavor profiles of the dinner menu but in smaller and, in some cases, sandwich-style portions. Good bets are the Crispy Chicken sandwich with Sichuan aioli, marinated tofu banh mi with beef roll sausage and chicken liver mousse, shrimp po’boy sandwich and Wild Isles salmon burger.

Sandpiper Wood-Fired Grill & Oysters

Hours: Lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays; dinner 4 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays; brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays; happy hour, 4 to 5:30 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays

Where: 2259 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla

Online: sandpipersd.com