Spring always brings about fresh new fashion, and right about now, the matriculating classes of New York’s prestigious design schools are finally displaying the fruits of their sartorial labor. Last night, the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) honored 73 students from its Fashion Design BFA program with a lively runway show—what else?—celebrating and amplifying their four-year-long effort to graduate with flying colors. The evening was also a celebration of two fashion industry legends: designer and FIT alum Victor Glemaud was named the Outstanding Alumni Honoree, while Karlie Kloss was honored as this year’s Fashion Icon. The looks that made the cut for the show were chosen by a host of industry professionals who have a keen eye for rising talent, like New York Fashion Week creator Fern Mallis and ELLE’s own fashion director Alex White.
White, for her part, has a history of supporting young designers. “I’ve worked with many young graduate designers at established fashion houses over the years and know how important their role is, particularly in research and fabric sourcing,” she says. “Judging by this year’s FIT graduate show, I would say there’s a lot of young talent to be brought onto these teams.” The students were also mentored throughout the semester by a group of the city’s best and brightest designers, including Jonathan Cohen, Sergio Hudson, and FIT alum Marshall Columbia. Each undergrad spans the industry in terms of their talent, and covered the four distinct categories of the runway show: special occasion, sportswear, knitwear, and intimate apparel.
The talent on the runway this season was palpable, with representation from four continents and 11 countries as well as a diverse offering of looks that ranged from casual to ultra-luxe. American fashion, of course, is rooted heavily in sportswear, and was executed brilliantly by several students, like critic’s choice winner Katelyn De Lavante Raphael, whose monochromatic pink look with ruched sleeves and an embossed back was a standout. Another highlight was the runway opener: a floor-length red bomber jacket with zipper detailing from designer Munira Khanam. Elsewhere, young designers like critic’s choice winner Cecilia Wolf took traditional pieces (think: denim jackets and suits) and deconstructed them to great effect. Take, for instance, her romantic punk riff on a tulle skirt and wraparound bustier made from suiting material. The knockout eveningwear ensemble was dreamed up by critic’s choice winner Yuri Ikegaya: a minimal black sheath dress and elongated upcycled fur coat that harkened back to an old-school glamour that was refreshing to see, both in its restraint and impeccable execution.
The runway show, sponsored by Macy’s, was extensive in showcasing all four specializations, with 11 students in total winning Critic Awards and two special Macy’s awards: the Macy’s x FIT Every Body Collection Capsule went to Mariah Does Hooke for her innovative dress that works for multiple body types, and will be available for purchase at Macy’s Herald Square flagship in the fall, and the Macy’s Bold Representation Award, which was given to Natalia Bermeo (Best Culturally Inspired Look), Jacob Caraccilo (Best Use of Sustainable Materials), and Lorenzo Lukban (Best Gender Neutral Look).
Both Macy’s and FIT recognize that new designers have more than just sales and fame on their mind: the ethics behind getting dressed and creating clothes have changed significantly, with the planet’s wellbeing and the future of gender non-conforming fashion remaining top of mind. Every viewpoint is critical to the progression of the industry, and these young designers recognize the power their needle and thread hold. That is the future of fashion.
Kevin LeBlanc is the Fashion Associate at ELLE Magazine. He covers fashion news, trends, and anything to do with Robyn Rihanna Fenty.
