Since I started covering the corned beef beat in 2017, I’m pretty sure I’ve had more styles of the sandwich than anyone in recent history. Definitely more than my primary care physician will ever know. At dozens of delis, restaurants and drive-thrus across the city and suburbs, I’ve had thin sliced, thick sliced, piled high, and a few that have had my inner Clara Peller asking, where’s the beef?
But recently I had one unlike any other.
The corned beef is stunning at John’s Food & Wine in Chicago, where it is the chefs’ modern statement on not only the sandwich, but how to pay their cooks $36 an hour.
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Co-chefs and co-owners Adam McFarland and Tom Rogers opened their debut restaurant last October in the Lincoln Park neighborhood. They seem determined to hide how special it is. From the name, with all due respect to their fathers both named John, to describing their menu as seasonal new American.
Then there’s that sandwich, which they simply call smoked corned beef, but it’s not just smoked and far from simple. It is a contemporary art piece of a corned beef sandwich. Thick and angular, I mean it as the highest compliment when I say it looks a fancy Spam sandwich.
The chefs share that McFarland came up with the recipe, and Rogers has been cooking it for more than a year.
They take brined corned beef, then cook it in almost a 50-50 ratio of ginger beer and a light lager with pickling spice, Rogers said.
“We just cook until it’s super tender,” he added. But wait, there’s more! They cool it, smoke it, chill it again, before slicing it seriously thick, then warm those slices in seasoned braising liquid. To build the sandwich, they add fontina on top of the meat, then melt the cheese. Then they place the corned beef with melty cheese in a big sesame potato bun, toasted in clarified butter, with McFarland’s melted leek aioli and Roger’s quince mostarda.
It’s an amazing process for a sandwich that’s only served at lunch. When you wrap your hands around the warm seeded roll, take a closer look at the precise slices before biting a corner off the tender corned beef, smothered in nutty cheese and aromatic aioli, all brought to clarity with the sweet yet tart mostarda.
“It took time and patience and practice and doing it for a long time and figuring it out,” McFarland said.
“It’s this weird kind of back-and-forth method that’s also for the flavor,” Rogers said.
I love weird methods that work. And that includes their business model, which sounds so revolutionary at a time with so much drama about service fees. It is in fact fairly simple, unlike the sandwich that’s $17 and worth every cent.
You order at the bar. They show you to a table. They bring out your food.
“We offer a great deal of hospitality reimagined,” McFarland said. “And it’s been working really, really well for us.”
For me too as a diner. I walked in cranky (because someone stole my parking space!), but was immediately calmed by the careful service.
“We do charge a 20% service fee,” Rogers said. “All our staff are getting paid above the minimum wage in Chicago. And then the service fees are distributed across the board throughout the back of the house, as well as the front of the house.”
The cooks make significantly more than most restaurants, not just in the city, but anywhere in the world.
“Our line cooks make $35 to $36 an hour,” he added.
When I staged at the Michelin three-star Alain Ducasse restaurant in Paris, doing the same work as a line cook, I felt lucky to officially make one euro an hour. But we had to clock out early, so we actually made less. In reality, I only made seven euros for an 18-hour day at a restaurant where the highest check while I was there was 50,000 euros at one table.
“When Tom and I were at Gramercy Tavern, we were making $10 an hour,” McFarland said about the restaurant in New York. “And captains were making around 150k a year.”
“Every time I look at the numbers, it still is very shocking,” Rogers said. Shocking in a good way. And it’s not just the line cooks who are making more. “Our prep guys are making a lot of money, and our dishwasher is doing very well.”
I’m so glad it’s working because I am so impressed and excited to see more of what they do.
The corned beef sandwich is a bit of an annual barometer. And there are two schools, the old piled-high style of sandwiches, and the new style usually with better ingredients and technique, but more modest in their meat.
At John’s, it’s different on so many levels. Plus they don’t offer an option to leave a tip.
“The reason why we have the service fee is we’re unable to share a gratuity with the back of the house,” Rogers said.
“Tom and I don’t touch any of those fees at all,” McFarland said. “It crosses our hands, but goes directly to our hourly employees.”
“Tom and I are cooking all day and then at night we’re shifting to the front of the house,” he added. Their bartenders guide guests to their tables, and their sommelier is bussing them. “Everybody has a bigger piece of pie because we don’t have that traditional server.”
Having grown up as an immigrant child in restaurants, I can testify that in the past, we all had to learn to do just about everything.
“We see the future of restaurants as owners and operators being more in touch with their guests,” McFarland said. “It’s good business.”
“Tom and I wouldn’t do it any other way,” said the co-chef and co-owner. “We’re here every night. We’re on the floor, cooking food, greeting guests, pouring drinks. We think the future of restaurants is this style that we’re doing.”
And the style of corned beef they’re doing makes a great sandwich.
2114 N. Halsted St., johnsfoodandwine.com
25 more of the best corned beef sandwiches in Chicago and the suburbs, in alphabetical order:
A.P. Deli
Joe Eddy Battee created a corned beef recipe for side hustle sandwiches at the corner store his father originally opened, with uncle and namesake Aaron Pollard, on the South Side of Chicago. A.P. Deli, a black-owned business now with three locations, celebrates its 40th anniversary this year. They still offer generous helpings of luscious corned beef and sides of fries tossed in A.P. sauce, the deli’s take on mild sauce.
$15 (original corned beef sandwich). 1759 E. 75th St., 773-288-4931; 10758 S. Michigan Ave., 773-821-8480; 15033 Dixie Highway, Harvey, 708-596-2270
Chief O’Neill’s Pub & Restaurant
Spouses Brendan and Siobhan McKinney go all out, every Sunday at brunch, every year for St. Patrick’s Day, and now marking 25 years with a series of specials and events. Chief O’Neill’s, the beloved Irish public house in the Avondale neighborhood, will party like it’s 1999. They make a lovely classic corned beef, and a beautiful Reuben too, so when weather permits dine in the beautiful backyard and imagine you’re far away on the Emerald Isle.
$16 (corned beef sandwich). 3471 N. Elston Ave., 773-583-3066, chiefoneillspub.com
D.A.’s Corned Beef Stand
Recommended by a Tribune reader last year as a “corned beef sandwich worthy of your list,” the stand that describes itself as the “Home of the One Pounder” is indeed worthwhile. Darryl Abernathy founded his first namesake Black-owned business on the West Side in 1996, and in 2022 opened D.A.’s Corned Beef Stand in Oak Forest serving sandwiches and soul food. Get the signature One Pounder Corned Beef sandwich, piled high with thinly sliced corned beef, and a touch of tart mustard, all barely held between slices of soft rye bread. A new location just opened in Alsip on Leap Day, and do note both are drive-thru only.
$16 (One Pounder Corned Beef sandwich). 4028 W. 127th St., Alsip, 708-897-8452; 5201 167th St., Oak Forest, 708-381-8005. dascornedbeefstand.com
Eleven City Diner
Brad Rubin created his Jewish-style deli as a theatrical American diner experience. Eleven City Diner still stands unparalleled as a pioneer in the South Loop since 2006. Each slice of tender corned beef is laced with lean and fat. An unofficial rule: You have to get the matzo ball soup too with its glorious orb.
$20 (corned beef sandwich). 1112 S. Wabash Ave., 312-212-1112, elevencitydiner.com
Halal Food
Owner Adnan Zadd opened the small strip mall grocery store in Burbank in 2023. Halal Food makes corned beef for the deli counter that is indeed zabiha halal. There’s a pound of feathery sliced meat on soft bread of your choice with Swiss cheese and mustard. Prepare to unhinge your jaw for that first incredible bite. Do note there’s no seating inside, but you can eat outside in the free parking lot.
$22 (jumbo corned beef sandwich). 5601 W. 79th St., Burbank, 708-658-6938
Half Sour
Elizabeth Norris opened the deli-influenced cafe, named for a pickle, with business partners in the Printers Row neighborhood. Half Sour offers house-made corned beef on the Reuben, with those crisp, fresh pickles. Remember to check the restaurant’s Instagram for creative weekend doughnut specials, and stop by the bar in the historic space that was once Blackie’s.
$16 (Reuben sandwich). 755 S. Clark St., 312-224-1772, halfsourchicago.com
JB’s Deli
Jeff Bendix decided to help save deli culture by opening a Jewish-style deli inside his pharmacy. JB’s Deli has been serving Jewish penicillin (chicken soup) and radiant corned beef sandwiches in Andersonville for more than 20 years. The unique vintage-style deli counter has modernized a bit with online ordering available.
$17 (corned beef sandwich). 5501 N. Clark St., 773-728-0600, jbs-deli.square.site
Kaufman’s Bagel & Delicatessen
The late Maury Kaufman founded his namesake Jewish deli in Skokie in 1960, before Arnold and Judith Dworkin bought the business in 1984. Kaufman’s is still the only place around town where you can clearly order a wide range of meat fattiness (regular, deckle, lean and super trim), unchanged since owner and accomplished baker Bette Dworkin took over from her parents. The lowest-priced happens to be the fattiest, and the most flavorful.
$16 (New Jersey Bypass sandwich). 4905 W. Dempster St., Skokie, 847-677-6190; kaufmansdeli.com
Mabe’s Sandwich Shop
In 2021, the Kincaid family, from the beloved 5 Loaves Eatery, took over the shop named after the original owner’s grandmother. The 312 is Mabe’s Sandwich Shop’s terrific take on a Reuben pressed panini style on brown butter grilled marble rye with corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Mabe’s sauce.
$12 (The 312 sandwich). 312 E. 75th St., 773-891-1798, mabesss.com
Manny’s Cafeteria & Delicatessen
The best deli experience in town — especially if Gino Gambarota is making your mile-high sandwich with enough corned beef for a few people. Manny’s, now run by fourth-generation owner Dan Raskin, was founded in 1942. They celebrate Gino’s anniversary behind the counter in the South Loop every May 5, his 41st this year.
$22 (Reuben sandwich). 1141 S. Jefferson St., 312-939-2855, mannysdeli.com
Max and Benny’s
Lester Schlan named the family business for his sons in 1986. Max and Benny’s stands now as a huge restaurant, deli, bakery and epicenter of Jewish life, not just in Northbrook, but across the North Shore suburbs. Get the tender corned beef in sandwiches piled in fragrant house-baked rye bread. Plus look out for Reuben egg rolls, an occasional special.
$14 (hot corned beef sandwich). 461 Waukegan Road, Northbrook, 847-272-9490, maxandbennys.com
Moon’s Sandwich Shop
Anthony Gambino founded the diner counter shop in 1933, where his sons would work then partnered with current owner Jim Radek, a former Chicago police officer, in 1978. Moon’s Sandwich Shop thrives on its little patch of East Garfield Park surrounded by big modern buildings. Inside the phone never seems to stop ringing, while the short order cooks hustle to make your warm bear hug of a corned beef sandwich.
$15 (Moon’s Famous Corned Beef sandwich). 16 S. Western Ave., 312-226-5094, moons.homestead.com
Morry’s Deli
Morry Orman, father of celebrity financial adviser Suze Orman, opened his Jewish-style deli in 1960. A lot of skill and history goes into slicing the meat to precise pink ribbons in this unassuming storefront setting. The original location in Hyde Park now has a new sibling in the UIC neighborhood.
$11 (hot corned beef sandwich). 5500 S. Cornell Ave., 773-363-3800; 2227 W. Taylor St., 773-363-3801; morrysdeli.com
New York Bagel and Bialy
This suburban bagel shop is still open 24 hours two days a week (Friday and Saturday). If you time your visit right, you might get a bagel still hot from the oven. The meat may be warmed in the microwave, but after your first bite through the crackly, chewy crust, all will be forgiven.
$8.49 (corned beef on rye bagel sandwich). 4714 W. Touhy Ave., Lincolnwood, 847-677-9388; newyorkbagelandbialy.net
Romanian Kosher Sausage Co
Get a signature extra lean corned beef sandwich at Romanian Kosher in Rogers Park, which has been open since 1957 — except during Passover, April 22-30 this year. The sandwich-making process can be a slow test of patience but you’ll be rewarded with carefully sliced, deeply spiced meat. Do note there’s no seating inside, but you can eat outside in the free parking lot next door.
$8.29 (Corned beef extra lean sandwich). 7200 N. Clark St., 773-761-4141
Schmaltz Deli
The Jewish-style deli named for golden chicken fat is not afraid to keep things fatty. It’s a simple, solid sandwich served with pickles and a side of endearingly irregular house-made bagel chips. Founded in 2004, the sole Lisle location now serves their half-stuffed, overstuffed or 20th-anniversary edition one-pound stuffed sandwiches.
$18 (The Wall Street sandwich). 3011 Ogden Ave., Lisle, 630-245-7595; schmaltzdeli.com
Schneider Deli
Owner Jake Schneider took over the tiny diner space at the iconic Ohio House Motel in River North just last summer. Fans of his namesake virtual deli and pop-ups followed, so his house-made bagels sell out regularly. You’ll find the Reuben sandwich with chunky corned beef, alongside a thick corned beef burger and corned beef hash of course.
$24 (Reuben sandwich). 600 N. LaSalle Drive, 773-590-1345, schneiderdeli.com
Steingold’s of Chicago
Aaron Steingold fulfilled a lifelong dream when he opened his original modern Jewish deli-inspired restaurant with wife Elizabeth Abowd in 2017. They moved to their current location next to the historic Music Box Theatre in 2021. This spring they’ll open a new outpost across the street from Wrigley Field. Until then, you can nosh on their signature sandwiches named for family, including the Uncle Rube, a Reuben built on beautiful grilled rye from Publican Quality Bread.
$18 (Uncle Rube sandwich). 3737 N. Southport Ave., 773-661-2469, steingoldsdeli.com
The Bagel
The Bagel has bounced around since it first opened in 1950 in the city, then the suburbs and back again to where it stands in Lakeview. Nothing seems to have changed with the classic corned beef on rye, or the wonderfully sassy staff, no matter where or when you visit. Let’s hope new owner Marvin Barsky, friend of late owner Danny Wolf, can bring The Bagel back to the reimagined Old Orchard mall in Skokie.
$16 (corned beef sandwich). 3107 N. Broadway, 773-477-0300, bagelrestaurant.com
The Brunchery
Chef and owner Derek Rylon brought his brunch game when he took over the restaurant founded in 1938. The Brunchery, formerly Frances’ Brunchery, has kept the historic deli classics, including the beloved corned beef sandwich, as a Black-owned business since 2018. Just remember to get your fancy pancakes, French toast and waffles early, since they close at 3 p.m.
$14 (corned beef sandwich). 2552 N. Clark St., 773-248-4580, brunchonclark.com
The Chicago Diner
The trademarked Radical Reuben sandwich (piled high with corned beef-style seitan, grilled onions, peppers, sauerkraut, Thousand Island dressing and dairy or vegan cheese) has become an icon beyond Chicago for good reason. The vegetarian (or vegan sandwich) is so good on its own, plus it comes with lots of side options including fresh cut fries or fantastic thin and crispy housemade yucca chips. It’s available at the original diner in Lakeview East, and the sister shop in Logan Square.
$18 (The Radical Reuben). 3411 N. Halsted St., 773-935-6696; 2333 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-252-3211; veggiediner.com
The Corned Beef Factory
The actual factory has been around since 1948, and owner Ted Lagios still uses the same recipe for the corned beef, also sold wholesale. The sandwich shop, opened in the West Loop in 2015, has become such a fan favorite for piled-high meat on rye that now there are four locations in the city and suburbs.
$14 (the corned beef sandwich). 1016 W. Lake St., 312-666-2536; 27w218 North Ave., West Chicago, 630-473-0862; 6817 Pershing Road, Stickney, 312-666-2536; 460 S. Eastwood Drive, Woodstock, 815-527-7437. cornedbeeffactorychicago.com
The Onion Roll Restaurant & Deli
When you walk through the Jewish-style deli in Oak Park, open since 1968, the wood-paneled dining room sets the stage for your elemental sandwich. Nothing more, nothing less, nothing fancy, but all you need. Plus, it pairs great with the matzo ball soup. Igor Russo, a Ukrainian immigrant, and Ryan Rosenthal were loyal customers who took over as the third set of owners 20 years ago this year in 2004.
$15 (hot corned beef sandwich). 6935 W. North Ave., Oak Park, 708-383-2548, theonionroll.com
Vienna Beef Factory Store
Founded in 1893 by Austrian Hungarian Jewish immigrants Emil Reichel and Sam Ladany, this is the maker of the definitive Chicago-style hot dog and the patented official corned beef of St. Patrick’s Day. The factory and shop moved south to the Bridgeport neighborhood, but it’s all the same. You could buy ingredients to make sandwiches yourself, but at least once, get one from the experts.
$14 (corned beef sandwich). 3847 S. Morgan St., 773-435-2298, viennabeef.com
Yellow Rose Cafe
Angelo and Rula Kalogris run Yellow Rose Cafe like a small-town mom-and-pop shop, creating an oasis with a few friendly staff for regulars and first-timers alike near the DMV in Jefferson Park. What they call their “plain” corned beef sandwich is anything but. It is lovely layers nestled within soft rye, served with fresh horseradish and yellow mustard on the side. Its highly recommended by the Breakfast Queen Ina Pinkney, as well as barbecue life coach and author Gary Wiviott. Remember it’s cash only, but if you forget, the closest ATM is at Coletti’s nearby.
$15 (“Plain” corned beef sandwich). 5640 N. Elston Ave., 773-631-2297
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