Over the past decade or so, natural wine bars have proliferated around the Bay Area, clustered mainly in Oakland and San Francisco but slowly spreading to other communities in the region. Here are three wine bars to try that have opened within the past year in San Jose, San Anselmo and El Cerrito.
So what is natural wine? “The best way to think about naturalness in wine is as an ideal: wine made from grapes with nothing added and nothing removed,” says Aaron Ayscough in “The World of Natural Wine: What it is, Who Makes It, and Why it Matters” (Artisan, 2022). There are levels of “naturalness,” of course, but generally speaking, these wines have some or all of these characteristics: They’re produced from organically-farmed grapes, fermented in native yeasts, contain no or very low levels of sulfites or other additives, and have not been fined or filtered.
Here’s where to taste them:
Goodtime Bar, San Jose
As it nears its first anniversary, Steven and Ann Huynh’s wine bar is all about inclusion and accessibilty. Steven’s Asian American upbringing didn’t include much exposure to wine or to the etiquette and knowledge expectations he says often accompany a traditional wine tasting.
“Natural wine, for me, breaks down those barriers,” he says. “It doesn’t really have a barrier to entry – you don’t need to know anything about grapes or wine varietals. (You can) have a fun experience, where you can learn if you want or just drink a good product and enjoy your time out.”
They even have a Goodtime Bar Run Club, so you can get your exercise in first.
What to try: Made with organic viognier grapes, the 2021 Les Parcelles Pétillantes Bouteillou from France’s Les Chemins de Bassac is sparkling and refreshing. Pair it with the arancini ($14), made with Japanese curry, kimchi mayonnaise and fontina cheese and topped with nasturtium leaves.
Details: Opens at 4 p.m. Monday and Wednesday-Friday and 2 p.m. weekends at 30 Fountain Alley #160 in San Jose; goodtimebarsj.com.
Voyage Bar, San Anselmo
The fireplace is glowing and the atmosphere buzzing on a recent Saturday night at this wine and low-ABV cocktail bar, which opened in December with a menu that specializes in natural wines with sophisticated food to match.
Wall-to-wall windows are a highlight of this charming space, set inside the town’s iconic Cheda Building, circa 1911. The building became San Anselmo’s first movie theater in 1914 and later, a series of businesses — drugstores, a lounge, an office — before its final metamorphosis. Today, it’s Voyage Bar, decked out with stylish reclaimed Douglas fir and redwood accents and vintage light fixtures.
The bar is run by David and Margaret Ruiz, who also own Fairfax’s Stillwater restaurant, alongside Dylan Jones and Matty Conway. Bites are curated by Stillwater chef Cameron Meyers, whose hearty grazing menu includes options like locally-sourced beef tartare ($17), confit pork belly ($24) and Bohemian Creamery cheese. The bar is also home to an analog vinyl music collection — “We have a really fun, approachable curated list at all times,” David says. There’s live music on Wednesday evenings, and outdoor seating and lunch service are on the way.
What to try: The menu rotates, but the roasted root veggies dish ($15) is a satisfying plate to share. You and your dining companions may find yourselves debating the difference between Romesco and Romanesco — the dish comes with both. (Tip: Romesco is a Spanish tomato-based sauce. Romanesco is a geometrically funky cauliflower variant.) Try a chilled red wine — perhaps Glassmaker’s refreshing co-ferment blend of zinfandel and carignan, made in Mendocino. The COS “Nero di Lupo,” a biodynamic red from Sicily, is mellow and light.
Details: Open from 5 to 10 p.m. daily except Tuesdays at 500 San Anselmo Ave. in San Anselmo; voyagebar.com.
Banter, El Cerrito
Banter feels undeniably hip. This year-old wine bar started by Claire Sullivan and Devin Hohler last April may look like an unassuming storefront from the outside. But step inside, and you’re instantly transported back to a time-warped version of the ’80s with vintage music posters, bold wallpaper and a community-sourced collection of VHS tapes and vinyl records. The back room offers a coin-operated pinball machine too.
The bar offers a rotating selection of natural wines, including a flight of three half-glasses for $22, which is a great way to sample several varieties. A selection of small plates — meat, cheese, hummus, anchovies ($14) — rounds out the menu.
What to try: The Oest Wines “Ruckus” is a light sparkling red, and the French Guignier Beaujolais Villages Gamay is fruity and fragrant. A more controversial choice is the orange Artana Rkatsiteli from Georgia (“the country!” the menu notes) aimed at sippers undaunted by descriptors like “vegetal” and “funky.” Just want a little nosh? Pair it with a slab of Acme’s “hella wet” levain bread ($5) served with salted Straus butter.
Details: Open from 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday at 10368 San Pablo Ave. in El Cerrito; banterwine.com.
