Follow Me: Friendly sharks and snorkeling with crocodiles in Cuba

Meet your new Cuban best friends: friendly sharks and a crocodile named Niño. In Part Six of our “Surprising Cuba” series, follow me and Wild Earth Expeditions for final surprises in world-famous Jardines de la Reina.

Because of strict conservation of ocean resources begun by the late Cuban President Fidel Castro, himself a diver according to locals, Jardines de la Reina (Gardens of the Queen) remains a sanctuary for underwater life as well as a significant source of income courtesy of keen divers from all over the world.

It is considered the world’s last remaining pristine reef, according to Undercurrent, an independent dive guide.

And what dives. In warm waters off Cuba’s southeast coast, dives last over an hour. We glide over rich brain, staghorn, fire and lettuce corals; soft tube and barrel sponges, purple sea fans and sea pens. From coral crevices, fat green moray eels emerge to mouth at us, giant lobsters wave their antennae, bubble-eyed porcupine fish peek above an outcropping then swish away.

Hundreds of fish surround us: schools of yellow-striped grunts, Goliath groupers and Nassau groupers, blue chromis, purple and yellow fairy basslets, wrasses, Spanish hogfish, gray angelfish, tarpon, barracuda, black durgon, four-eye butterflyfish, banded butterflyfish, queen parrotfish, stoplight parrotfish, porkfish, needlefish, trumpetfish and spotted drum.

Invasive lionfish lurk, their venomous spines wafting like a Las Vegas chorus girl's feathered headdress. A tiny blue and orange nudibranch no bigger than the end of my pinkie nail can’t escape our divemaster’s sharp eye.

Two shy green turtles glance over then slide away. Two relatively rare fish, the indigo hamlet and the golden basslet, enthrall photographers.

Out in the blue, a skittish spotted eagle ray appears then disappears in a blink.

A nurse shark snuggles in the white sand under a coral outcropping. Another gray reef shark swims parallel to us for a few seconds, followed by a black-tipped reef shark that appears out of nowhere and disappears just as fast.

This is typical shark behavior. As apex predators of the reef, they check out every disturbance in the ocean. Nine divers splashing in, their bubbles resonating loudly, cause disturbance. Sharks check out their ‘hood then swim away. Their territory is safe. Divers like to see sharks when they enter the water; it’s a sign of a healthy reef.

Four Caribbean reef sharks swim with us the entire hour. Seven silky sharks circle us the latter part of the dive, swimming so close we make out individual scales on their skin. They do not leave until we’re out of the water. Just takin’ care of the ‘hood.

Ready for your crocodile snorkel?

Yes, one snorkels with wild saltwater crocs. Is it safe, you ask? Well, according to the guides, no one’s ever been bitten yet.

“Neen-yo-o!” hollers Dive Guide Bayron as our motorboat drifts into a mangrove swamp. Tying a raw chicken leg to a thin rope, he splashes the water and continues calling.

At last, a log floats into view, bulging eyes betraying the log's reptilian identity. Bayron lures Niño to one side of the motorboat. Those wishing to photograph Niño slip off the other side, carrying cameras and wearing snorkel gear. Thomas Baechtold, Wild Earth’s leader, leads three other Expeditioners into chest-deep warm water. Cameras poised, they stand on white sand. Will you follow Baechtold?

For several minutes, Baechtold images the croc with his massive fish-eye lens, at one-point, bare inches from the croc’s pointed snout. Bayron dangles the chicken just out of Niño’s reach. Niño leaps for the chicken. When he opens his jaws, cameras click like crazy.

Eventually, Niño seizes the chicken leg from the rope and meanders to the shelter of the mangroves. Show over, folks. “A first for Wild Earth,” proclaims a triumphant Thomas.

How does such beauty thrive in a commercial world?

Dr. Fabian Pino Higuera of Cuba Marine Conservation meets with us to fulfill our humanitarian license.

“Over 800 pieces of legislation cover commercial and sport fishing, domestic and international fishing and the all-important marine preserves such as Jardines whose area has quadrupled since its formation in 1996,” Higuera said. “That’s why there are so many numbers and such large animals and healthy corals. And, because of the protected areas, even areas just outside the Preserve show increased growth and stability.”

Higuera said per capita, Cuba has more marine and environmentally protected area than any other country in the Caribbean.

Our Cuban adventure surprised us in more ways than we ever imagined. It is possible to travel there. Just follow the rules and maintain an open mind. Your Cuban surprises await.

Next time: Hit the ski slopes with the Chicas Calientes!

Join Yvonne Lanelli on outdoor adventure in Lincoln County and around the world every two weeks exclusively in Vámonos.