Last week, we saw two more affordable and completely capable trail bikes reviewed by RC, and this week we have two hardtails that bring the dollar figure down even more while remaining highly capable right out of the box.
Both the San Quentin and the Fuse offer a lot for what they cost, and while they don't have rear suspension, they aren't going to stop riders from honing their skills, riding a wide range of terrain, and most importantly, having a good time out on the trails.
The San Quentin 3 features an aluminum frame and sells for $2,000 USD. The Specialized Fuse Comp is also aluminum-framed but with bigger 29" wheels, and goes for $1,675 USD. What separates these bikes besides the $325 difference in price and 27.5" and 29" wheel sizes? Let's break it down.
Marin San Quentin 3: $2,000
Marin's name and location are intrinsically linked to the birthplace of mountain biking, Marin County, California. While mountain biking nowadays conjures up images of pricey full-suspension bikes laying over the tailgate of a Toyota Tacoma, driven by bros with flat-bill hats en route to slay the local trails, its roots are far more humble. The San Quentin speaks to those roots, as Marin says that the bike was developed for "downhill trails, light dirt jump, and enduro."
While some will certainly balk at that description being paired to a bike with only front suspension, there's a lot to be said for the simplicity and reliability of a solid hardtail. With the San Quentin 3, Marin has built a bike that has the geometry, componentry, and durability to tackle a variety of trails and still leave the rider with a smile on their face.
San Quentin 3 Details Construction: 6061 Aluminum frame, internal cable routing
Wheel size: 27.5"
Geometry: (med.) Head angle: 65º, seat angle: 75º, reach: 444mm, BB height: 310mm, chainstay: 425mm
Sizes:S, M, L, XL
Suspension: 130mm RockShox Revelation RC
Key Components: Shimano 11-speed drivetrain, Shimano BR-MT400 brakes (180mm rotors), 150mm X-Fusion Manic dropper post
Contact: Marin Bikes The San Quentin gets 27.5" wheels, 130mm of front suspension, and an aluminum frame that's designed to be durable and plenty stiff. It's a bike made for riding in technically challenging situations and to allow riders to learn, progress, and hone their skills without fear of mechanical failure.
Marin chose to give the San Quentin an aggressive 65º head tube angle, 425mm chainstays, a reach of 444mm, and a seat tube angle of 75º on the size medium we tested. While a 75º seat tube angle isn't exactly what we would call progressive on a full-suspension bike, it's important to remember that on a hardtail you're not sagging into the suspension, so it's right in line with where it should be.
A RockShox Revelation fork is a big bonus to find on a bike at this price point. The Vee Flow Snap tires are robust and have a lot of tread for gnarly conditions.
The San Quentin has internal cable routing through its aluminum frame.
What it Does Best The San Quentin 3 feels stout from the start, and there's no question that it's up to the task of going a lot of places in the hands of a capable pilot. Its progressive geometry and 27.5" wheels, coupled with the aggressive 2.6" tires and a 130mm fork, helped provide the confidence necessary to steer the bike into rough terrain, knowing that it can make it through.
The smaller wheels help the bike feel nimble, and taking it from the trail to the dirt jumps or flow trail in the bike park is as simple as pedaling from one to the other. Even after a day's worth of laps on flowier trails in the Whistler bike park, the San Quentin felt as solid as could be. The tires do get a little bit skate-y on looser terrain, but overall the parts spec is well-suited to the bike's intentions.
Specialized Fuse Comp 29: $1,675
Specialized designed the Fuse Comp as a versatile and aggressive hardtail (seeing the theme here?). The bike, as tested, uses Specialized's aluminum M4 frame, can run either 29" or 27.5"+ wheels, and has chainstays that offer 15mm of adjustment, ranging from 420mm-435mm.
The Fuse comes in two different builds as well as a 'frame-only' option. Our more affordable Comp build sells for $1,675 USD and comes with a 130mm RockShox Recon RL fork, SRAM 12-speed drivetrain, SRAM Level brakes, and a 120mm TranzX dropper post.
Specialized Fuse Comp Details Construction: M4 Aluminum frame, internal cable routing
Wheel size: 29"
Geometry: (medium) Head angle: 66.5º, seat angle: 74º, reach: 440mm, BB height: 315mm, chainstay: 420mm-435mm
Sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL
Suspension: 130mm RockShox Recon RL
Key Components: SRAM SX Eagle 12-Speed, SRAM Level brakes, TranzX 120mm dropper post
Contact: Specialized 29" wheels provide a little extra help in rolling over rough terrain, which is especially welcome on a hardtail. Specialized finishes out the build of the Fuse Comp with a mix of house-branded components, including their own tires, seat, and grips.
The geometry of the bike lends to versatility. A 66.5º head tube angle, 74º seat tube angle, and reach of 440mm is again right in line with what we would expect in a capable hardtail. Like the Marin, there are no toss-away parts on this bike, and everything about it is functional, capable, and durable.
A 12-speed Eagle drivetrain gives riders a ton of gearing to get up steep pitches of trail. The adjustable dropouts allow for the handling of the bike to be tuned to some extent, as well as leaving the option for easily setting it up as a single-speed.
Clean internal cable routing is a nice added touch to the Fuse.
Specialized opted for adjustable chainstays on the Fuse. This not only gives riders the option to fine-tune the geometry of the bike via how long the rear-end is, which directly correlates to nimbleness on the trail, it also allows riders to easily swap the bike into a single-speed setup without the need for an additional chain tensioning device.
The Butcher and Purgatory tires use Specialized's Grid casing, which is a more durable option than the often seen Control casing. Additionally, Specialized's Bridge saddle is an exceptional offering that will provide most riders with a comfortable ride with a design similar to their higher end Hinge saddle.
The RockShox Recon RL fork isn't top-tier but it is adjustable, rebuildable, and tunable. It's built on the Reba chassis and features a Solo Air damper that's tried and true.
What it Does Best Up, down, and all around. Like the San Quentin, I spent time on the trails in and around Whistler on the Fuse riding everything from flowy park trails to more technical singletrack. With a hardtail, most riders can ride most of trails they would on a full-suspension bike, but the pace is different. The 29" wheels of the Fuse, along with capable geometry and tires that performed well allowed me to ride highly technical trails without fear of mishap.
I'm happy to say that not only did the Fuse hold up well, but it also performed well and was a blast to ride on just about any trail we encountered. The 29" wheels of the Fuse along with better tires and more gearing gave it a bit of an edge over the Marin when it comes to all-around trail riding but, at the end of the day, both bikes were fully capable and dependable when it comes down to it.
Full suspension isn't a requirement to have a good time on the trails, as these two bikes prove. While it is important to invest in a quality bike if you're looking for durability and dependability, there are options out there that can tick those boxes without requiring a second mortgage or the sale of a kidney.
Along with being more affordable, hardtails can help even the best riders improve their skills and learn to ride with a lot more finesse. Plus, there's more to mountain biking than being the first rider to skid to a stop at the bottom of a trail.
If I were to choose one bike of these two for how I like to ride, it would be the Fuse Comp 29. The larger wheels carry a little more speed and make rolling over and through more technical sections of trail a little bit easier. The parts spec is also more what I would consider ideal, thanks to the increased range of gearing with the SRAM Eagle drivetrain and better performing tires. The Marin, however, would likely be a better choice for the rider looking to spend more time at the local dirt jumps while adding in a mix of trail riding.
nukeproof.com/products/scout-290-expert-2020
The lifetime warranty is also a plus there, hoping this HT lasts a while.
Then they started fkng it up by making it stupid long widening the tire pocket but the original Honzo deserves to be in the MTB hall of fame as one of the most profound designs nobody ever noticed.
I've thought about trying 27+ on my Honzo, but I don't want to buy wheels just to experiment.
But agreed. It seems like a killer bike with a reputation to match.
I think plus tires really only work well for hardtails. I don't love them paired with full sus.
slightly more endurance geometry for flowy-er trails, longer rides, bikepacking while still very shreddable/jumpable
surprisingly nice balance of light/tough for the money, 27.5" & 29" completes, decent parts specs, more mounts for the adventurers and overpackers
also has adjustable dropouts for singlespeed and geo adjustments.
Really though it's more in my hands/arms. I get a ton of feedback through the bike. It's not arm pump, just general soreness/aches. Switching to a 31.8 bar from 35 helped. Spank Vibrocore helped a little more. Maybe the fork is too burly for the bike's intention? I'm running a Suntour Auron which has 35mm stanchions.
There are other 29 inch hardtails out there.
Yes, the completes are above this price range, but they're worth it!
I ride a pipedream moxie from the UK and the spec's are so close.
www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FROOHD/on-one-hello-dave-frame
I’m looking for a nice used Trail/enduro hardtail frame to exchange my old 2008 Kona Stuff.
I know it’s intended use was as a Dirtjump Bike, but I got a size large frame instead of the size small I usually rode in Kona’s back in the day and set it up with a nice 95-140mm Rock Shox Pike, amazing looking red DT Swiss E2200 wheels, Shimano XT Drivetrain and 203mm Avid Code brakes etc.
These parts make the bike a pretty decent handling Singletrail Hardtail, but you can feel the geometry is dated nowadays..
The front gets super light when climbing with the 140mm fork and almost 70 degrees headtube angle and cornering can be very scary if you’re not used to a bike that starts to slide in the front instead the back.
So if you could point me to a 26“ frame which is really intended for enduro stuff, I would be super grateful!
P.s.: I even created a Pinkbike account to ask this specific question, so please acknowledge the ridiculously funny username I came up with!
Nothing against Nukeproof, I ride a 2016 Mega 290 with amazing suspension upgrades (Formula Selva and EXT Storia LOK) and I love it!
I just got it recently and it’s my first bike with bigger than 26“ wheels and modern geometry.
It took some time to get used to the totally different feeling, but now it blows my mind everyday because of how capable it is.
It’s much better handling on the downhills than the dedicated 200mm DH bikes from the mid to late 2000 I’m used to, but the mindblowing thing is how effortlessly it climbs with that much travel.
Also it beats my former freeride/park/jump bike (Rocky Mountain Slayer SS in the amazing yellow Wade Simmons Signature Edition with the super funny and detailed blue decals) in every aspect while still having this amazing touring qualities.
Years ago Seb Kemp wrote this brilliant piece:
www.bikemag.com/blog/friday-five-hardtail
Here's an excerpt:
Elimination of geek science
If you turn up to a group ride or bump into another rider at a lonely trailhead the likelihood of you being bored to death with inane banter about some element of “science” is vastly reduced.
This is because other riders believe anyone who rides a hardtail is:
A) A newbie
B) A little bit “special”
C) Poor
D) Terribly naive
They won’t try and coax you into a conversation about digital telemetry, coefficient drag rates, leverage snakes and other such nonsense they read on the back of a catalog or in some ridiculous forum. They’ll think you don’t have the capacity to comprehend that level of cerebral stimulation or that you probably just just don’t care.
This is good, now you can ride in peace.
There's a very good reason cars, truck, and motos have rear suspension.
We're fortunate to have the technology that allows mountain bikes to have those same benefits.
Seb Kemp was more right "years ago" when FS bikes were in their early days, but these days his insight is dated and off target.
Maybe this puts me in the "a little bit 'special'" category.
How’s it ride, any cons to running it at 150?
140
HA: 66.72
STA: 72.24
BB: 317.5
150
HA: 66.28
STA: 71.78
BB: 320.9
I also get to choose between 27,5 and 29, and the geo is pretty similar. That's what I'd call good value.
Yes Vitus does make "capable" hardtails that are cheaper than their "capable" full suspension bikes.
And Specialized makes "capable" full suspension bikes that are more expensive than their "capable" hardtails.
For 2k you can also by a car or a motorbike or a blah blah blah.
All useless if you want to buy a hardtail.
Giant Trance 3 has a better fork, equivalent brakes, slightly worse drivetrain, quality full suspension with slightly more dated geo... comparable spec full sus for $100 more than the Spesh here
RS 35 gold fork / RS deluxe R
Giant dropper
SX drivetrain (at that price i dont care SX vs NX)
ships tubeless with maxxis HR2 2.5WT exo 3c
I got a Vitus Sommet from CRC last year for $1600 with a Yari and full SLX (drivetrain and brakes) and dropper, and it's awesome. $1600! Same price as the Fuze but full squish and better components. The biggest difference between the two is middle men who increase the price.
Sure, you paid more for an LBS brand, but you probably got to try it out, size up, and if you are at the right shop, they helped you pick it out and educated you on the components and models. Some folks may be tempted by the value on a CDC, but there is value to be had in an LBS. If you mechanically inclined, knowledgeable, and good with a geo-chart maybe CDC isn't a bad idea, but otherwise, sometimes worth it to visit an LBS and pay a little extra.
I've also gotten terrible advice from mechanics at LBS's, and I've gotten great advice from mechanics at LBS's. I've had bike shop employees clearly just trying to upsell me on everything no matter what, or try to push me into buying their closeout junk they're just trying to get rid of. I've walked into bike shops waaaaaay too many times knowing more about the bikes they sell than they do.
Neither route is perfect and neither ever will be. But saving $1000-$2000 on comparable builds by buying direct is a HUGE difference, plenty to have your local bike shop fix *every single mistake* you listed and still have $500-$1500 left over, easily. For expensive bikes it's not "just a little extra".
I get that. Or maybe you just WANT a YT or another CDC, and if so, rad, get it. I am not here to judge.
But having had alot of friends who wanted to "save a ton of money buying a YT!" (I have had 4 buddies over the last few years purchase YT's) and then seen the customer service nightmare with that particular company when it comes to the bikes NOT being dialed out of the box and YT not being willing to help once they ship out a bike. IE bikes do not shift properly, brake rub, one of my friends cross-threaded a derailleur hanger (which was his own fault), and then witness folks bring in bikes over and over at my LBS that are CDC with either user-error problems or trying to get the LBS to warranty parts on their bikes as they don't know how, is kind of a mess. If you read reviews on many CDC bikes, they do NOT come out the box ready to go in most cases. I think YT and Canyon may do a better job at this, but there is still technical know how involved, even if it is basic. I have purchased several bikes CDC, and one of the bikes came out the box ready to go, and the other needed a lot of tuning. That's fine, I know how to work on bikes.
My point is, if you are a new consumer, and do NOT know how to work on bikes, and do NOT know how component warranties work, it can sour an experience of bike ownership. I have seen it happen more than a few times. Not everyone is price conscious, some are more value conscious, and they will find the value in someone assisting them in picking out a new bike, getting it setup the way they like it, and the support an LBS offers post purchase.
Also... as has been noted in more CDC reviews in the past year, some bike companies are bringing out more price competitive models, and some CDC companies prices are creeping. Also, the hybrid model, such as what Norco, Specialized, and Trek are implementing means you can order one from the comfort of your home and then have the LBS assemble and tune it for you.
You can’t turn a subjective quality into ‘hard evidence’. Different people have different priorities.
I don’t have a horse in this race, but ‘ability to do things’ is only one qualifier of ‘bicycle superiority’. (Lmao)
For example:
-Ultimate climbing and pedalling efficiency is probably going to be won by an XC hard tail.
-Hard tails have less wear components, pivot bushings, etc, and therefor easier to maintain in brutally muddy conditions.
Those specific qualities may not be of paramount importance to you- but they are to other people. Therefor those are the best bikes for those people.
You’re basically saying that a suit is better than a T shirt because you wouldn’t wear a T shirt to your office job or a funeral. Doesn’t mean the suit is the best choice in all conditions.
"Ultimate climbing and pedalling efficiency is probably going to be won by an XC hard tail."
Try going up a set of stairs on a hardtail versus a FS and see which one does better. Also, keep in mind that FS bike can become as efficient as a hardtail through suspension lockout, especially with modern anti squat geometries.
"Hard tails have less wear components, pivot bushings, etc, and therefor easier to maintain in brutally muddy conditions."
But they take more rear wheel abuse, which requires more tire changes, wheel truing, and so on.
There is no way to spin this, sorry. FS bikes are just better. Bang/buck? Sure Ill give you that, hardcore hardtails probably win in this category, although the new sub 2k Vitus bikes are very close. Overall, FS is still better.
last time i checked, you can't ride a dh bike up hill as well as a trail bike, so your comparison is invalid.
"I can manual, pump, jump, and bunnyhop way better on a hardtail than an enduro full suspension"
You can get a bike like Evil Calling, pump up the shock to 300 psi, and it would be just as efficient to pump, jump, and bhop as a hardtail.
What a tool
This isn’t spin. Different people want different things, and that’s all there is too it?
But next time I have to ride up a whole bunch of stair sets, I’ll remember to bring my full suspension bike.
Flogging a dead horse mate. He obviously knows best.
I guess all bmxers are doing it wrong too
Watch Fabio Wimmer Specialized Stumjumper bike check, or any of the Sam Pilgrim ones, because thats exactly what they do to be able to get pop on their bikes. Are you saying they should just be on a hardtail?
@phops: You need to relax.
You do realise they both ride hardtails too?
Sure, specific dirt jumpers or trials bikes, which is outside of this discussion. There is no getting out of the fact that that DangerDavez said that pumping up suspension to high PSI for a more responsive bike is dumb, when thats exactly what they do. Not sure why even people are trying to defend that point.
I sure have.
However, me being right in the fact that you literally can't ride a hardtail up a set of stairs like you can with an equivalent FS bike has zero dependence on how fast I am.
On the other hand, I am willing to bet that all the people that are shilling hardcore for hardtail get shown up by FS riders all the time, so they have to go get their validation on line.
What a moron.
You're whole argument is based around cycling up a set of stairs? Yeah, cause that's what people go out and by bikes for.
Give it a rest.
‘Shilling hardcore for hardtails’
Hahaha. Yes, me- a mainly commuter cyclist, who goes MTB riding on occasion is getting paid to push hard tail bikes on the internet.
Oh no, what will I do now that I’ve been exposed??
The Great Hardtail Conspiracy of 2020. We’d have gotten away with it to, if it wasn’t for you meddling kids!
Hmm so you are telling me you never ride trails that require climbing up rocky/rooty terrain that resembles irregularly spaced stairs?
Interesting.....
I do. Almost every ride.
.....quite comfortably on my hardtail I might add.
If you have the skill to do it on a hardtail, then you would be even faster climbing on an FS bike.
Therefore FS bikes are better.
Wrong again.
Give up dude.
Same gear range and completely compatible with the any fancier "eagle" bits when the OEM parts wear out, unlike the X3/X5/X7 crap. (except casette requ replacing freehub)
Call SX/NX cheap and clunky all you want (it is), but it's a big improvement over what was coming on lower-end bikes a few years ago.
More importantly, drivetrain is totally the right place for product managers to skimp at these price points so they can spec better suspension/tires/brakes. Drivetrains don't matter as much for mtb relative to the other bits and can more easily and cheaply be upgraded and customized bit by bit.
Be interesting to see a $1000 and under comparo. That's about how much most beginners would be willing to drop on a new sport, I'd think.
I wish they offered that as a frame only option!
It's sort of the same situation as the automotive world; it doesn't cost a lot to make something look good, but few companies have well designed lower end models.
rent 2-3 times, see if you like it - $200buy a bike from same shop $600-3000 that's right for your goals, get your rental fee credited, go ride for 3+ years with the same gear plus a few wear items.
Or have your buddy who know bikes help you find a decent hardtail or old full sus for under $1k and ride for years.
skiing you just factor in transportation and accommodations and you're spending $1k-$3k a season doing it on the cheap, never mind if you're doing it as a family.
Also proliferation of superbikes is fun but definitely makes the sport *seem* less accessible than it is.
but yes let's face it, even done cheap, MTB is pretty expensive compared to a lot of other sports.
$650
Vitus Nucleus
$1000
Vitus Sentier
Nukeproof Scout
Norco Fluid HT 3
Rocky Mountain Growler 20
$1300
Vitus Sentier VR
Nukeproof Scout Race
Norco Fluid HT 2
Commencal Meta HT
Partial list of HT with 'modern geo' (always changing, so define it how you like it)
Commencal Meta HT
Kona Hanzo
Salsa Timberjack
Marin San Quentin
Norco Fluid HT
Rocky Mountain Growler
Trek Roscoe
Specialized Fuse
Banshee Paradox
Ragley
NS Bikes Eccentric
On One
Santa Cruz
On-One Scandal
Onzo Jackpot
Surly Instigator 2
Canfield EPO
Orbea Laufey
Brid Zero
Cotic BFE
Marin Nail Trail
Whyte 905
Chromag Rootdown
Esker Hayduk
Octane One Prone
Send me your experience when you ride it!
Diamondback Sync’r
Raleigh Tokul
Onzo Jackpot, fantastic frame and good spec (all you need to change is the tyres) - about £1,200
Epic trail slaying tool!
www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FROOTT/on-one-tiktik-frame
www.zoobab.com/on-one-tiktik
Will try to provide a TCO once it is finished.
/ˈkāpəb(ə)l/
adjective
adjective: capable
1.having the ability, fitness, or quality necessary to do or achieve a specified thing.
"I'm quite capable of taking care of myself"
Similar: have the ability to, have the potential to, be equal to (the task of), be up to, be disposed to, be inclined to, be prone to, be liable to, be likely to, be apt to have what it takes to open to or admitting of something.
"the strange events are capable of rational explanation"
Similar: be open to, be susceptible of, admit of, allow of
2. able to achieve efficiently whatever one has to do; competent.
"she looked enthusiastic and capable"
Marin also has a lifetime limited warranty on hardtail frames. The 5 year limited warranty is for full suspension and carbon frames only.
www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBOOSCGX/on-one-scandal-sram-gx-mountain-bike
Built mine up from a frame with GX drivetrain, shimano brakes, and a 130mm Pike.
Coming form my 69 degree head angle, 100mm 29er to a 65 degree 130mm 29er was.... eye opening.
I've enjoyed reading and viewing this year's Field Test, great job! Here's to hoping for a hardtail category to go along with all the others next year!
Me: Oh good, this should be an interesting read
PB: $2,000 (£1700 GBP by the time import costs are paid)
Me: :-O
WTF bike industry?! seriously, go home and think about what you've done.
It was only 2005 that i went and had a really long hard think about whether £500 was too much to spend on an off the shelf Giant XtC.
Hardtails have gotten much better along with full suss, and any rider worth their salt should give one or two a try.
The little guy is still a strider.
Shifts pretty well for the price, and anyone selling off the group on the whole is a bit daft - slap a GX shifter on it and you’re good to go for a good long while. Most of the shift performance comes from the shifter, but SX and NX rear derailleurs are admittedly a bit flimsy.
I have it on the bike I keep around for friends/newbies to ride, and it’s held up to some beatings just fine. I’d take it over the deore 10spd in terms of shift quality.
An oversight I expect Sram will work to correct in the next generation to keep you stuck on their overpriced spare parts. ;-)
Then of course, I'm not sure what angles are considered normal and what is odd. My BTR Ranger with a 120mm fork has 460mm reach (size large) and a 63deg head angle (26" wheel model). I only had the seattube shortened and the top tube lower, but other than that it is standard geometry. I think the reach number is indeed quite standard these days if I compare it to bikes reviewed here on PB. The head angle steepens as a hardtail sags in the travel whereas a full susser (typically set up with more sag in the rear than in the front) would actually get a slacker head angle when sagged. So maybe head angle numbers on hardtails appear slack for those who typically only look at full suspension bike geometries. But they may actually be quite comparable. Unfortunately it is common practice for bike manufacturers to give the unsprung geometry of the bike. Which in the case of a hardtail may give you the wrong impression about the angles whereas on a full suspension bike it will give you the wrong impression about front and rear center. I'm still surprised to see people agonize over front and rear center of full suspension bikes right down to the millimeter whereas when sagged, the actual amount will really depend on the amount of travel, axle path (which in the case of a suspension fork is related to fork angle).
Me, "Kick ass decent wasn't it?"
Buddy, "That was f*cking nuts. I'm still shaking."
Buddy rides a Yeti 5.5. I was on a modern hardtail. Think 64 degree HTA and 160mm fork modern...
Let's call it what it is... 2k for an ally hardtail is not a bargain!
I feel like especially in a category like this a 10° engagement hub would be especially nice for someone who's new to the sport/never ridden a decent bike.
That all being said are there still bikes for $1000+ (CDN/USD/whatever) with hubs that engage at more than 10 degrees? Been out of the game for a long time.
and it's waaay more fun than any FS I've ridden!
Just stop right there we already know which one you're going to pick.
define what affordable means cause these bikes are expensive to me!
THAT IS WELL OVER $2,000.00 CANADIAN
A week ago? Can't remember. By the way who is RC?
www.pinkbike.com/news/rc-retires-a-tribute-to-richard-cunningham.html
eskercycles.com/products/hayduke
Wut?
Is the Recon ok at 130mm?