118.88-Carat Burmese ‘Royal Blue’ Sapphire Leads Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Exceptional colored gems will take center stage at the next Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels sale, which will be held live on October 7 at Sotheby’s Gallery.

There are two potential top lots in the sale (and I say potential because they are being offered with an estimate upon request). One is an “extraordinary” 118.88-carat Burmese unheated “Royal Blue” sapphire mounted on a diamond pendant. The cushion-shaped sapphire has no indications of heating or any other treatment, according to the Gübelin Gemological Laboratory. The “royal blue” color is a trade term meaning it has a very attractive and well-saturated blue color. “The depth of color, combined with a high clarity and brilliance, all contribute to the beauty of the gem,” the lab states.

It is rare for a Burmese sapphire of this size and quality to come to the market. One of the most famous examples is the Rockefeller Sapphire, a 62.02 carat rectangular step cut stone that was unearthed in Burma, and acquired by financier and philanthropist John D. Rockefeller, Jr., from an Indian Maharaja in 1934.

In addition to its rarity, its total weight contains the numbers “888,” an exceptionally lucky number in Chinese culture. I feel lucky just writing this. The sapphire pendant is presented in a blue leather fitted case.

The other potential top lot is an “imperial green” jadeite bead necklace. The 43 jadeite beads are designated with the trade term of ‘imperial green’ jadeite because they are the finest specimen of “Type A” jadeite with a vibrant emerald green color that is almost transparent. The beads run in size from approximately from 13mm to 11.26mm and have a total weight of 630 carats. The necklace is completed with a clasp set with brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds.

A third colored gem receiving attention is a 6.41-carat unheated Burmese ‘Pigeon’s Blood’ ruby mounted on an 18k yellow and white gold ring surrounded by French-cut diamond. The jewel was designed by Hong Kong high jewelry house, Forms. It is accompanied by a report from the American Gemological Laboratories that states the gem hasn’t been treated while receiving one of the highest color grade determined by the lab: 2.5. “Less than 10% of all gem-quality rubies are unheated, making them both rare and impressive,” the auction house said. “Darker rubies are often heated to enhance their shade, but unheated rubies are naturally intense and vibrant.” Its estimate is $2.2 million - $2.8 million.

Even though colored gems highlight this sale there are number fancy colored and colorless diamonds in the sale. The top lot in this group and another potential top lot of the overall sale is a 4.84-carat pear-shaped fancy vivid blue internally flawless diamond set in a platinum and pink gold ring flanked by two brilliant-cut diamonds each weighing 1.1 carats. Its estimate is $7.1 million - $8.4 million.

In addition, a pair of fancy intense blue diamond and diamond pendent earrings are expected to attract strong attention. Each piece features a suspended pear-shaped diamond, weighing 5.95 and 5.24 carats, from a brilliant-cut fancy intense blue diamond, weighing 1.95 and 1.63 carats, mounted in 18k white gold. Its estimate is $3.6 million - $4.5 million.

The sale of 118 lots is not very large as the world continues to be hampered by the global coronavirus pandemic but it is diverse. It includes historic signed jewels, cotemporary pieces and a trio of tiaras.

“The jewelry market has proven to be highly resilient, with our clients in Asia eyeing the best quality jewels on offer,” said Wenhao Yu, deputy chairman, Jewellery, Sotheby's Asia.

Other significant items in the sale are a ‘Holly Wreath’ Diamond necklace by Harry Winston (estimate: $1 million - $1.5 million), and an Art Deco emerald and diamond Brooch by Cartier (estimate $130,000 - $169,000).

Another item of importance is an 18k white and pink gold ring designed by Hong Kong contemporary high jewelry artist, Nicholas Lieou. The jewel features a 24.88-carat jadeite cabochon with an intense emerald green color surrounded by brilliant-cut diamonds with a pink tint. It’s paired with a 2.08-carat fancy vivid oval purplish-pink diamond surrounded by marquise-shaped diamonds. The auction house described it as “bridging Eastern and Western aesthetics in an unexpected marriage of materials.” Its estimate is $1.4 million - $1.9 million.

The auction will be held two days after the single-lot sale of a 102.39-carat, D color, flawless oval diamond, offered without reserve. Bidding has begun online with the final part of the sale being held live in Hong Kong on October 5 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.