Al Ward: How to prepare for your new bird dog

Spring is a great time to buy a new puppy or a trained bird dog.

Let’s start with looking for a new puppy. What type of hunting do you like most, upland game, ducks or a combination?

For quail and pheasant, there is the pointing breed and flushing breed.

I have owned several pointing breeds — German shorthair, Brittany, Gordon setter, Weimaraner — and I have hunted over a pointing lab, Drahthaar, Griffon, Vizsla and Irish, red and English setters.

In Georgia, I hunted over a Boykin Spaniel, and at Nilo Farm in Illinois, they used springer Spaniels. These are all good, hard-working flushing bird dogs.

People ask me what breed I like best and I tell them the ones that point, back, retrieve, will come when called and know “whoa.”

When buying a pup, look at the parents. Find the best sire and dam. Talk to people who have hunted over the parents. Check to see if the parents have been medically examined for any hip problems. Bad hips can keep a bird dog from performing well.

Is your new pup going to be an inside or outdoor dog? They both can make a good hunting companion for you.

There are many places that sell puppies. They usually are ready for their new home at 8 weeks of age. They are like a new baby — they need a lot of love and attention. The more time you work with them, the more they understand what you want.

In working with a young dog, keep the sessions short and more than once a day, if you have time. Always end the training session on a positive note.

If your pup is an inside dog, it needs a box or traveling crate in an area out of the way for their comfort.

A good, plain-leather collar and lead is a must, as well as a good whistle. The sooner the pup gets used to them, the easier training will be.

It is important that the pup doesn’t associate a bad experience with the owner — you have become the momma to it.

As the pup grows older, you will need a 20-foot check rope that has a swivel snap to attach to its collar. When not in use, you can wrap it up and hang it on your belt.

The outside dog needs a fenced dog run, 4-by-8 or -10 feet. My runs are on concrete, or you can use pea gravel, but that’s harder to clean up.

They need a good dog house. I like a wooden one that has a sloped roof and an offset entrance so the wind is not blowing directly on the dog. A hinged top of the house makes it easier to clean or drop in the hay for bedding. The size of the house is important. If it is too large for the dog, it can’t maintain adequate heat in the winter.

A rug in the box is not a good idea. The dog may chew and swallow the fiber and glue and that can cause medical problems.

I have a self-feeder and hang a hard, rubber water bucket up off the concrete. In the winter, it is slower to freeze, and the male dog can’t mark it and contaminate the water. Fresh water daily is necessary. Dehydration can be a serious issue.

Backyard training of basic commands are heel, here, whoa, sit, stay and no.

As the pup gets older, you start teaching quartering. Quartering means teaching the pup on the check cord to hunt back and forth out front of the hunter.

Don’t use an electric collar to teach a command. After they know the commands well, you can use the collar as a reinforcing tool.

There are many good books, articles and videos to help you train your new puppy.

If you don’t have the space or time to work your pup on birds, there are trainers that do a great job. Two months of professional training is worth the money.

If you prefer a dog that is fully trained, there are several options. Field trainers have good dogs that aren’t going to win any ribbons, but are good bird dogs. Hunting preserves also may offer trained dogs. Your vet may have a line on a trained dog to buy. Also, after the season, some hunters don’t want to winter a dog until next season, so they sell it.

Watching a good bird dog or two doing a great job in the field is something I never get tired of seeing.

Good luck training your new dog and many happy tails.