One of the unexpected outcomes of the coronavirus pandemic: the surge in surfing.
Since the pandemic hit earlier this year, people have sought refuge outdoors to escape the confines of their homes. The vast ocean, where you could find space in the salt water, became a place people felt safe.
Also, as team sports shut down through summer, some parents found surfing a good way to get their kids exercise. And with gyms shuttered, old timers who surfed in their younger years rediscovered their love for the sport.
While that was great news for surf shops as new customers rolled into stores to buy boards and kept businesses afloat, the influx of newbies and crowds to surf spots along the coast has caused frustration among local surfers who faced a whole new crop of people jockeying for waves.
The wait time just to get into San Onofre State Beach on any given day was upward of two hours on busy summer days, even longer on weekends. Hundreds of people showed up each day throughout the summer waiting for waves rolling in at Doheny State Beach, with boards and people flying around all over the place.
California Surfing Day is Sunday, Sept. 20, a quasi-holiday co-created by state assemblyman and surfer Al Muratsuchi (D-Torrance), in 2018. While gatherings like in past years aren’t happening due to the pandemic, it’s a good time to give a quick guide to newbies getting to know the coast, or a chance for longtime surfers to get some fresh ideas on how to celebrate and enjoy the surf culture.
Learn surf etiquette
Imagine no rules on the road, with cars doing whatever they want. In order to avoid chaos, surf etiquette rules were put in place decades ago to bring some sort of order to the water.
Among the most universal: If someone is already on the wave or is closest to the peak paddling for a wave, don’t drop in on them – it will not only mess up their wave, it can be dangerous. Also, never ditch your board, it can smack another person and knock out teeth, or worse.
When paddling back out to the line up, avoid paddling in front of a rider coming toward you, even if it means taking a beating in the whitewash behind them.
Don’t be a wave hog. Be kind and courteous, even if you are on a longer board and can, technically, catch more waves.
If you’re new to surfing, it’s not a bad idea to take a few lessons, with instructors typically going over the basics of surf etiquette and rules to know. And if you’re not new to surfing, have patience for those learning and remember: everyone was a beginner at some point.
Get a real board
Sure, that cheap foam board that cost a hundred bucks may be good for a kid. But investing in a real board will change your surf experience. You’ll get less eye rolls on the beach and by buying a real surfboard, you’re contributing to the surf culture by allowing surfboard shapers and shops to survive.
Unsure if you’ll love it enough to stick with it? Check out consignment racks at surf shops such as Used Surf and Stewart Surfboards in San Clemente, where you can score used boards for cheap.
If you want to try different shapes or sizes, there’s a few options, such as The Board Club in Newport Beach, which allows you for a monthly membership to try different sizes or designs to get a feel for what you like before you commit.
There’s also a new online rental platform called “The Quiver” that allows surfers to rent boards from other surfers, or list boards collecting dust in their garage to make a bit of extra cash.
If you really want to go with a soft top for fear of getting smacked in the face, some local brands are creating some better quality and much cooler foamies like that can be fun to ride.
Take a tour of surf landmarks
Looking for an excuse for a road trip?
You may drive past them unnoticed, but if you take the time (and who doesn’t have extra time right now) you’ll find statues and tributes that would make a fun surf safari adventure.
First stop should be the Duke Kahanamoku statue at Main Street and Pacific Coast Highway in Huntington Beach. The big bronze statue of the Hawaiian surf icon stands looking out toward the Pacific Ocean. The Olympic gold medalist swimmer helped popularize the sport of surfing on the mainland and transformed the culture as we know it. And soon, his dream of surfing being in the Olympics will be a reality.
While you’re there, check out the Surfers’ Hall of Fame in front of Huntington Surf & Sport with hand and foot prints of the world’s most renowned surfers placed in stone. It’s a fun task to find the names and their words of wisdom etched in cement.
Across the street in front of Jack’s Surfboards, you’ll find the Surfing Walk of Fame, with iconic surfer names put in granite stone along the walkway.
A worthy stop in the South Bay would be the Surfers Walk of Fame on the Hermosa Beach Pier. The beach town had a huge influence on early-day surfing with shapers and riders who helped popularize the sport.
Dana Point’s newly created Waterman’s Plaza has the area’s most influential surfers displayed, including Hobie Alter, who helped create the modern-day surfboard, style master Phil Edwards and filmmaker Bruce Brown, who made the “Endless Summer.”
The plaza is part of the city’s ongoing effort to recognize Dana Point’s historical significance to the sport of surfing. More statues are planned, including of surfboard maker and South Bay icon Dale Velzy and John Severson, the late founder of Surfer magazine.
If you want a good giggle, check out the Cardiff Kook down in San Diego. It’s a surf statue gone wrong near the San Elijo State Beach campgrounds, but locals have embraced it by dressing the kook up in crazy costumes to bring joy to people passing by.
Read surf books
There’s plenty of time these days to curl up with a good book on the sand to learn about the surf culture, and plenty of historical books give insight on how influential figures in the area helped turn the tide for the sport.
“Dale Velzy is Hawk” by renowned surf writer Paul Holmes gives a glimpse into one of the sport’s more interesting icons, while his book “Hobie Master of Water, Wind and Waves” details Alter’s influence not just on surfing, but the sailing world.
“Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” by William Finnegan earned a Pulitzer Prize in 2016 for the memoir that takes readers through his younger years in Hawaii and then along for travels around the world.
If you’re one of the many people who have been showing up at San Onofre, dig into “San Onofre: Memories of a Legendary Surfing Beach.” Author David Matuszak, a member of the San Onofre Surf Club, details a rich history in 1,575 pages, with even more stories added with the recently released second edition.
Shop local
Most of all, support your local surf shop. They are the lifeline to the surf culture and help supply surfers with endless smiles and everything they need to stay stoked.
These are hard times and the more people who shop, especially as the holidays near, the more likely they’ll be able to weather this wild ride of 2020.
