5 Outdoor Havens That Aren’t the Galápagos

A View of Mashpi Lodge from an observation tower
Photo: Courtesy of Mashpi Lodge

Most travelers to Ecuador pass through the mainland in a dash to the Galápagos Islands, a natural nesting ground for rare species that adapted uniquely due to a series of differing microclimates. The appeal of snorkeling with hammerhead sharks, seeing the blue-footed booby in flight, and coming nose-to-nose with sunbathing Galápagos penguins is quite enticing, but mainland Ecuador is also home to a number of protected lands where extraordinary animals flourish. As one of the world’s 17 megadiverse countries, Ecuador leads the ranks, home to the most biodiversity per square mile out of any nation in the world. More than 25 percent of the country is protected land, encompassing 40 national parks, reserves, and refuges. While South America is home to half of the world’s bird species, Ecuador—while covering less than 2 percent of the continent—harbors half of this species count, a staggering figure that leads the country to hold the world record of species per area. Here, discover the regions of Ecuador where its nature shines the brightest—from the thick vegetation of the mysterious Amazon to the effervescent mist that shrouds the canopied coastal rainforests of the Chocó biogeographic region.

Mashpi Lodge

Photo: Courtesy of Mashpi Lodge

MASHPI RAINFOREST BIODIVERSITY RESERVE
Set in in the heart of the Chocó biogeographic region and regarded as one of the planet’s leading hot spots of biodiversity, Mashpi Rainforest Biodiversity Reserve is Ecuador’s most revered cloud forest, home to enchanting curtains of flowing waterfalls and a blossoming population of colorful hummingbirds, butterflies, and howler monkeys. Intimately intertwined with the jungle’s natural density, Mashpi Lodge—part of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World—offers an immersive experience above the clouds: At more than 3,000 feet above sea level, the 22-room lodge is perched amidst a profusion of plant and animal species, and recently, the property’s team of biologists and guides found a new species of frog, the Mashpi Torrenteer. The tree frog is native only to the Mashpi Reserve, increasing Ecuador’s amphibian count to more than 550 varieties, adding to the staggering 500 species of birds in the Mashpi forest, of which 36 are native to the area. Masphi offers an extensive program of excursions to see the lush cloud forest up close, including the newly erected Dragonfly tram, which transports guests into the canopy on an aerial gondola ride.

COTOPAXI NATIONAL PARK
Just an hour and a half drive from Ecuador’s bustling capital of Quito, all remnants of brash city life are forgotten amidst the wonder of Cotopaxi National Park, an Andean highland home to one of the highest stratovolcanoes in the world. In a land where waterfalls flow in abundance and wild horses, Andean condors, and pumas all roam free, it’s easy to be entranced by the spiritual connectivity Cotopaxi harbors. During a visit to the park, stay at Hacienda el Porvenir, a 23-room, thatched-roof property whose suites are outfitted with relaxing sitting areas and fireplaces. The property is the perfect base to explore the park’s attractions like Limpiopungo Lagoon, the Pucará del Salitre Inca ruins, and Manto Blanco falls, but most travelers to the property are called to Cotopaxi for the endless mountain biking and trekking trails in the park. Most prominent of all experiences is the opportunity to become acquainted with Cotopaxi’s chagra culture, a traditional cowboy lifestyle and identity that’s ruled the highlands for more than 400 years. At Hacienda el Porvenir, opt for a private horseback ride through the Andes, and—if you’re lucky—Cotopaxi’s legendary mist will shroud the rolling hills in an ephemeral fog. It’s reverential.

Sacha Lodge

Photo: Courtesy of Sacha Lodge

AMAZON BASIN
Ecuador’s wilderness is at its height in the country’s Amazon basin, one of the world’s most iconic rainforests and rivers. Although Ecuador only accounts for 2 percent of the Amazon’s expanse, the immediate vicinity is home to about 600 species of rare birds and more than 350 species of reptiles. As the Amazon is typically associated with neighboring Peru, travelers to the Ecuadorian Amazon will find a pristine rainforest of exploration where few tourists roam. In a land where indigenous tribes still live in isolation from the outside world and creatures constantly lurk even when you can’t see them, it’s best to travel with a group or private guide, as it’s almost impossible for an outsider to anticipate all of the knowledge one must have to effectively traverse this land. Explore the region with Peregrine Adventures: During a trip, you will stay in a thatched-roof cabin at Sacha Lodge, located near wildlife-rich Yasuní National Park and Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve. Here, you can spend your days canoeing in the tranquil Amazonian waters of Lagartococha, constantly on the lookout for your next toucan, caiman, and three-toed sloth sighting.

COTACACHI-CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE
Stretching over 750,000 acres and spanning a perfectly preserved portion of Ecuador’s biodiverse Chocó coastal rainforest, the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve is home to an array of creatures, ranging from the harmless marsupial frogs to the carnivorous ocelots, jaguars, and pumas. Comprising 10 distinct ecological zones and an altitude spectrum that ranges from 100 to 16,000 feet above sea level, a variety of animals are able to thrive here. But what really lures travelers to this area are the mountain peaks. During a trek with Exodus, you will set out on the Pinan trek through the highlands of the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve, where you will experience the Cuicocha Crater Lake at the base of the Cotacachi Volcano, a massive, three-domed formation of two intra-caldera islands separated by a water channel dubbed the “channel of dreams.” The journey continues deeper into the Chocó rainforest and neighboring Imbabura and Cayambe, volcanoes, the latter being Ecuador’s third highest mountain. Learn how to ice climb like a true outdoorsman on Ecuador’s Avenue of the Volcanoes as you travel along one of its equator-straddling glaciers.

A room at Hacienda Zuleta

Photo: Courtesy of Zuleta

CAYAMBE-COCA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Only two hours from Quito, Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve is an area where hawks and Andean condors are often seen gliding through the sky, and the rare Andean spectacled bears, foxes, and mountain tapirs are viewed with frequency. On a bespoke tour with Butterfield & Robinson, you can explore the valleys and fields that lead to the Otavalo Market, known for its textiles and tapestries. Just beyond the market and near the Cotacachi-Cayapas and Cayambe-Coca ecological reserves, your journey will culminate at Hacienda Zuleta, a 16th-century colonial working farm on nearly 4,000 acres of land closely bordering the Cayambe-Coca. Owned by the family of Mr. Galo Plaza Lasso, a former president of Ecuador, the property features a communal library and women’s embroidery workshop, just a few of its community tourism initiatives. Stay in one of the property’s 14 rooms for a glimpse of authentic hacienda life—like working the dairy farm, cheese factory, trout farm, horse stables, and organic vegetable garden—while participating in the Andean Condor Huasi Project, the hacienda’s rehabilitation and rescue center that works to reintroduce injured condors back into the wild.