Jennifer Chandler: How I went from writing about barbecue to judging it during Memphis in May

Do you love barbecue? If so, guess what — you are qualified to be a judge for the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest.

According to the WCBCC judges manual, the two requirements to be a judge are: “You’re passionate about perfectly prepared pork barbecue” and “You’re not a vegan.”  Thank goodness, I fit both categories.

Each year, Memphis in May hosts one (and only one) judges seminar. This year's contest is May 15-18 at Tom Lee Park in Downtown Memphis. Space is limited to 100 students, so my advice is to sign up quickly when you see the class announced. It always sells out. Luckily, I was able to grab a spot for the 2018 class.

More:Memphis in May: 10 things to do at the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest

In November, I filed into the Holiday Inn Select banquet room to spend a day learning about competition barbecue and the ins and outs of the judging process. As I looked around, I saw a diverse group of people ranging in age, race and gender. It was also a diverse crowd geographically as not everyone in attendance were Memphians. In addition to Tennessee, eight other states were represented — ranging from as far away as New York, Minnesota, Florida and California.

The day began with a preliminary test of 50 questions. It took us each about 15 to 20 minutes to complete.

Let’s just say, I thought I knew something about barbecue judging. But as it turns out, I had a lot to learn.

Sitting next to me was Al Gossett, a first-year Memphis in May board member. Like me, he had assumed that all the judges were professionals. “I wanted to learn more,” he said of his decision to take the class. “In particular, I want to know how do they come up with a winner when every piece of meat down there in the park is wonderful?”

Frank and Mary Horner were the teachers that day. Their job was to answer Gossett’s question, as well as all the ones I had missed on the test.

The Horners had cooked on a winning team for about 10 years before they decided to take the judges class about 20 years ago. They have been volunteering as judges ever since. “Judging is a great way to have barbecue without the work,” Frank Horner joked before he got down to the business of teaching us how to be qualified judges.

Over several hours, we discussed all the rules and regulations of judging, the official meat categories, the scoring process and the various types of judging (blind, on-site and final).

I learned the difference between shoulder butts, shoulder picnics, loins and hams.  Turns out ribs can either be country-style, back, spare or St. Louis style. When judging those ribs, you don’t want them to fall off the bone. In competition barbecue, there should be a little resistance when it's pulled off the bone.

I took studious notes, as did everyone around me. As the day progressed, we were each getting more and more excited about being able to judge in May — and hungrier and hungrier for barbecue. 

After the Horners' presentations, member of the Red Hot Smokers team came in to do a mock presentation of an on-site judging process. Teams go all out explaining their cooking processes as judges taste their barbecue.

“Your attention as a judge is so important,” said Wayne Booth, a Red Hot Smokers team member. “We put in 20 hours for your 15-minute tasting.” That’s something I won’t forget when I get the opportunity to be an on-site judge.

Ingo Boettcher was chosen to be the practice judge for this mock on-site judging presentation. Boettcher was chosen because he came the farthest to participate — Saulheim, Germany.  His 40th birthday present was this class and a trip back this May to be a judge.

After five hours of lessons, the group sat down for the final test. I am proud to report that myself, along with everyone in the room, I think, passed with flying colors.

One of my favorite takeaways? Barbecue is a finger food. The reason is that you need to touch it to feel its tenderness and to make sure the fat has been rendered correctly. Booth said the WCBCC is the one place you are encouraged to lick your fingers. (I need to make a note to bring some hand wipes with me.)

Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com, and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer.

At a glance

Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest

When: May 15-18

Where: Tom Lee Park 

Hours: 5-11 p.m. May 15; 11 a.m.-midnight May 16 and 17; 10 a.m.-10 p.m. May 18

Tickets: $10

Online: memphisinmay.org