Colorado's middle-of-the-country setting means visitors often forget there's plenty of water to play in (or on, when it freezes over come December). But Coloradans know better than to overlook these locales. Instead, we plan our trips around reservoirs, alpine lakes, and hot springs—because there’s nothing more ahh-inducing after a long day in the mountains than cooling your toes in the river or a soak in geothermal pools.
For a few days on the road that will showcase all of the above, follow this Colorado road trip that starts in Denver. It traverses some hidden gems in southwestern Colorado and offers a taste of the best of the region: mountains, charming towns, a national park, and, yes, plenty of hot springs. There’s something special to experience in any season, but this circuit is particularly beautiful when the fall foliage covers the mountains in gold and orange. In fact, there is so much to do that it’d be easy to extend your trek—spontaneity we highly encourage.
(Note: The state is under a mandatory mask order until at least October 12.)
The trip: Four days, 301 miles
This Colorado road trip starts from Denver before winding southwest to Gunnison and the expansive Blue Mesa Reservoir, to end in Ouray.
When to go
There are adventures to be had along this route year-round, but we’re partial to summer and fall. Summer is lovely because temperatures don't rise too high in this area, making outdoor excursions a little less sweat-inducing. Fall has the added beauty of the leaves changing, plus the season of afternoon thunderstorms has passed. (The downside: Blue Mesa’s marinas and on-site restaurant close for the season in the last couple weeks of September.)
What to drive
Any car will do on these mostly paved roads, but four-wheel drive is always recommended in the high country as you’ll be climbing mountain passes—and there's always a chance that Colorado will throw some unexpected weather your way (like snow in September).
Day 1
Set an alarm for an early wake-up call, because today is your longest drive. If your stomach is growling, carb-load with a breakfast burrito from Santiago's Mexican Restaurant (with five Denver locations, it shouldn't require much of a detour). Do as the locals’ do and order yours “half and half” (half mild green chile, half hot green chile). Satiated, you’ll follow Highway 285 south for about two hours to reach Buena Vista.
BV is the perfect welcome to mountain country: Six 14,000-foot-tall mountains tower above you as you near town. If you skipped breakfast, and even if you didn’t, swing by Brown Dog Coffee Co. for a pastry-and-java combo. Then head to South Main, a newer neighborhood adjacent to the Arkansas River and a whitewater park. Pop into the family-owned Sundance & Friends to peruse artisan wares, including handmade leather goods, ceramic mugs and bowls, and Western-style jewelry. If you’re making good time, squeeze in your first hot water soak at nearby Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort (no reservations needed). Alternatively, you can opt for a short detour to wander through St. Elmo, one of the state’s best preserved ghost towns; the general store is still in operation May through September.
Then it’s off to Blue Mesa Reservoir (elevation: 7,519 feet), less than two hours away. The drive takes you up and over Monarch Pass. In the winter, you’ll want to build in time for a ski day at Monarch Mountain; lift tickets here are somehow still priced under $100. When you reach Blue Mesa, either set up camp—tent or RV—at Elk Creek Campground or check into the Inn at Tomichi Village in nearby Gunnison. Dinner awaits at High Alpine Brewing Company, where the Curecanti Chile Beer is made with roasted green chiles from neighboring Paonia.
Day 2
Fuel up for the day at Tributary Coffee Roasters. The café serves house-roasted and sustainably sourced java alongside scratch-made breakfast sandwiches and porridge. Then, it's off to Blue Mesa Reservoir, the largest body of water in Colorado with nearly 100 miles of shoreline, for the day. Explore on your own by renting a pontoon boat, kayak, or stand-up paddleboard from the Elk Creek or Lake Fork marinas. The reservoir is also home to the largest Kokanee salmon fishery in the country, and fishing boats are available. Pack a lunch to make the most of your time.
Blue Mesa is one of three reservoirs that make up Curecanti National Recreation Area, a 43,095-acre park that encompasses plenty of land activities, too. Among our favorites is the moderately challenging, four-mile round-trip hike to the Dillon Pinnacles—oddly shaped hoodoos and pillars formed from exploding volcanic cones.
Before packing it in for the night, head back into town for upscale tavern eats and a pint at the Dive Pub.
Day 3
Time to get your gear together for destination two: Ouray (elevation: 7,792 feet), an area once home to the Ute Indians that turned into a basecamp for miners and, now, outdoor adventurers. On the way, take an extended pit stop at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. With its rugged pseudo-trails, steep walls, and rushing Gunnison River below, it’s no surprise that this is Colorado’s least-visited national park—which means more space for you. Inner canyon hikes require permits and are suggested only for the most intrepid hikers (the National Park Service is not allowed to build trails into the canyon because the area falls within designated wilderness land). But not to fret: The South Rim Road scenic drive, which takes two to three hours to complete, encompasses 12 overlooks, including the famous Painted Wall, a 2,250-foot-tall cliff streaked with striking, pink-hued bands. For short, nontechnical hikes, try the Warner Point Nature or Oak Flat Loop trails.
Refuel with lunch at Colorado Boy Pizzeria & Brewery in Montrose; the pies are built on house-made dough. Ouray awaits just 50 more miles away. Settle in at the Beaumont Hotel, built during the gold rush in 1886, before exploring the charming downtown. Main Street is lined with original Victorian buildings and signage along the road highlights their original uses and when they were built. Don’t miss Ouray Alchemist, a museum dedicated to the medicines of the Wild West (call ahead to book a tour). Nab an early dinner at the Outlaw—fun fact: John Wayne’s hat hangs behind the bar—before watching the stars appear from the tree-shaded pools at Orvis Hot Springs. (The venue is clothing optional; families may opt for the larger Ouray Hot Springs Pool downtown instead.) Beer drinkers should cap the evening with a pint at Mr. Grumpy Pants Brewing, a locals’ hangout; spirit imbibers can pull up a seat at KJ Wood Distillers.
Day 4
Ouray refers to itself as the “Outdoor Recreation Capital of Colorado” and you’ll see why as you traverse the Perimeter Trail, a 6.5-mile loop that circumnavigates the small town. (Grab a house-made bagel at the Artisan Bakery and Cafe before lacing up your hiking boots.) Set aside at least four hours for the trek as there’s a lot to see. Starting from the trailhead across from the visitor’s center, the trail ascends steeply for about 10 minutes. The payoff is views of the entire box canyon—a sight that continues along much of the journey. Among the trail’s highlights are the towering Cascade Falls, Baby Bathtubs (smooth, carved rocks kids can play on), and the Box Canyon Falls high bridge. (To see the 85-foot waterfall from below, plan a separate visit Box Canyon Falls Park.) Because the Perimeter Trail is never more than a half-mile from town, there are several points where hikers can cut the walk short and head back into Ouray. Along the route, you’ll also catch sight of the Ice Park Trail, which leads to some of the world’s best ice climbing, and a via ferrata—two adventures to consider for your next visit.
Urge your weary feet to carry you back into downtown where you can plop down at Ouray Brewery and daydream about a return trip over a burger and a San Juan IPA.
