How We Picked the 2019 SELF Healthy Beauty Award Winners
Every year, the SELF Healthy Beauty Awards recognizes the best new products on the market that will help you tend to your skin and hair, based on your personal needs. Those needs can range from nurturing your combination skin or fine, natural hair; to managing health conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis; to covering up (or at least feeling more comfortable with) scars or bald patches from body-focused repetitive behaviors. Among others! Whatever your concern, we're here for you.
We sorted our winners into categories based on skin type or condition, because that's how you'll most quickly find the products made especially for you: dry skin, oily and acne-prone skin, sensitive skin, scars and discoloration, and the like. And we limited our winners to products that have a direct impact on these issues or conditions, focusing primarily (though not exclusively) on skin-care products, hair-care products targeting different hair and scalp types, and cosmetics that impact the skin, brows, and lashes.
We spent over six months selecting this year's winners. The process involved a panel of dermatologist experts providing direction on ingredients, 83 individual testers with a wide range of skin conditions, skin types, and hair types, and over 1,250 products in consideration. In the end we chose 127 deserving winners that we know you'll love as much as we did.
For more on the brand's philosophy behind the Healthy Beauty Awards, be sure to read this essay from our editor in chief about what "healthy beauty" means to her. And read on to find out more about how we picked this year’s winners, the guidelines we used, and the dermatologists who helped us along the way.
How We Chose the Winners
To begin, we consulted several board-certified dermatologists and one ophthalmologist for guidance on ingredients. We gave them a list of the varying product types we expected to test, and asked them to name the ingredients or marketing terms that someone with specific conditions, concerns, or goals would want to look for or avoid in each of those products, focusing on efficacy and comfort.
Next, we assembled a small army of testers (83, to be exact). We specifically reached out to individuals with a wide array of conditions and skin concerns—rosacea, cystic acne, dandruff, eczema, etc.—plus other, more cosmetic goals. (Yes, we recognize wrinkles and dark under-eye circles are not skin conditions, but they’re still a concern for many, and we’re here to help.) Our testers wrote reviews of every product and ranked their picks on a scale of zero (the worst) to five (the best).
Then it was time to look at our results. And that's when things got a bit more complicated.
The universe of non-prescription beauty products is a bit overwhelming. It's plagued with misconceptions, confusing and sometimes fear-mongering marketing language, conflicting or limited research, not a ton of transparency, and almost zero government regulation. All of which makes it hard to say for sure whether you should absolutely use or absolutely avoid... well, most products, because you can't know exactly how much of each ingredient they contain. Is there enough of ingredient A to be effective? Is there too little of ingredient B to cause irritation? It can be hard, if not impossible, to suss out. (For more on the science of skin care and the makings of a skin-care routine, read our new comprehensive guide to skin care here.)
To make things a bit trickier, there were certain products that seemed to match up really well with the experts' recommendations, but the testers—people with the actual skin conditions—found them to be irritating or ineffective. Similarly, there were products that didn't match up so cleanly with the expert guidelines, but testers absolutely raved about them.
And finally, there's the obvious fact that what makes a good beauty product can be incredibly subjective. Our testers agreed with each other on many products...and disagreed on others. In the world of beauty, a great many things come down to personal preference, and there's no such thing as one-size-fits-all.
For all of these reasons, in choosing what products to consider and give awards to, we decided to stay away from absolutist language like “must” and “never” when it came to specific ingredients. Instead, we approached the expert recommendations as directional, rather than strict requirements, giving extra weight to products that had more from the "look for" column and less from the "avoid" column. We also gave more weight to the products that the most testers seemed to love. Our winners and the products we tested reflect those choices.
With that said, we make a point in each product write-up to point out whether the product got "bonus points," so to speak, for having some of the good stuff, and also noted when the products contained ingredients that some of the experts highlighted to stay away from. When it came to suggestions that differed from our own reporting, we noted that as well.
What the Experts Said
The feedback we got from our amazing panel of dermatologists and our ophthalmologist was wonderfully extensive; it required numerous spreadsheets to keep track of it all. The following is a top-level summary of their recommendations for different categories of products, based on your particular concern, skin type, or condition. The actual information they gave was significantly more granular than this, but we figured this would be the most useful way to present the information.
You may notice a lot of repetition within this list—but that all tracks. Some powerhouse ingredients can be effective and beneficial regardless of your skin type; and likewise, some are probably smart to avoid, if you have the choice. Here’s how we broke it down:
ON THE LABEL: This refers to language you can look for on the labels of cosmetic products. Keep in mind that a lot of what you see on a label is marketing jargon without any regulation. That said, it can still be helpful as a jumping off point in your search.
LOOK FOR: These are the ingredients our experts recommended.
AVOID WHEN POSSIBLE: These are the ingredients our experts said to watch out for—either because the ingredients could potentially be aggravating to your skin type or condition, or because it’s something they try to steer clients away from in general.
Again, none of these are hard and fast rules. If a favorite product already in your medicine cabinet contains one of these ingredients, remember that you need to look at a formula holistically. And, if something is already working well in your skin-care regimen, you may want to stick with it. But if you're at all in doubt, talk to a dermatologist.
Here's what the experts had to say:
Skin Care and Makeup for Dry Skin
ON THE LABEL: “non-drying,” “non-irritating,” “moisturizing,” “hydrating,” and “non-comedogenic.”
LOOK FOR: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, shea butter, squalane, aloe vera, coconut water, urea; and when it came to body products, natural oils like sunflower seed oil, argan oil, rose hip oil, coconut oil, and safflower seed oil.
AVOID WHEN POSSIBLE: parabens, fragrances, sulfates, phthalates, dyes, harsh physical exfoliants (like apricot kernels), too much alcohol, and too many acids (like salicylic acid, which can be drying). As a heads up, you should know that the research on some controversial ingredients like parabens and phthalates isn't totally clear-cut, and you can read more here.
Skin Care and Makeup for Sensitive Skin
ON THE LABEL: “gentle,” “non-irritating,” “hypoallergenic,” “non-comedogenic,” “non-drying,” or “for sensitive skin." In general, our derms suggest using products with shorter ingredients lists. Fewer ingredients means the product is less likely to contain an ingredient that might irritate your skin.
LOOK FOR: hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, aloe, witch hazel, ceramides, mineral sunscreens (like titanium dioxide and zinc), and antioxidants (like vitamins C and E).
AVOID WHEN POSSIBLE: dyes, parabens, phthalates, fragrances, too much alcohol, essential oils, mineral oil, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES).
Skin Care and Makeup for Combination Skin
ON THE LABEL: “fragrance-free” and “non-comedogenic”
LOOK FOR: hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin, glycolic acid, retinoid or retinol products, and antioxidants (like vitamins C and E).
AVOID WHEN POSSIBLE: fragrances, dyes, parabens, phthalates, petroleum, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES).
Skin Care and Makeup for Oily or Acne-Prone Skin
ON THE LABEL: “gentle,” “oil-free,” “brightening,” “exfoliating,” and “non-comedogenic”
LOOK FOR: alpha or beta hydroxy acids, salicylic acid (a particularly popular beta hydroxy acid), and glycolic acid.
AVOID WHEN POSSIBLE: Any oil-based products (try to avoid products with “oil” in the ingredients list), coconut oil (which can be pore-clogging), and tea tree oil as a toner (which can be irritating).
Hair Care for Fine or Thinning Hair
ON THE LABEL: “volumizing,” “thickening,” “sulfate-free,” “root lifting,” and “talc-free.”
LOOK FOR: Jojoba oil, coconut oil, palm oil, olive oil, hydrolyzed keratin, and silicones (such as dimethicone).
AVOID WHEN POSSIBLE: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), isopropyl alcohol, triclosan, retinyl palmitate, propylene glycol, FD and C color pigments, Polyethylene Glycol (PEG), Chlorine, Diethanolamine (DEA), Monoethanolamine (MEA), and Triethanolamine (TEA), and FD & C color pigments.
Hair Care for Oily Hair
ON THE LABEL: “mild shampoos” or “mild conditioners,” “sulfate-free,” purifying,” or “talc-free.”
LOOK FOR: Oils like coconut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, and salicylic acid. Our derms also suggest you avoid overwashing or any product that requires excess scrubbing.
AVOID WHEN POSSIBLE: Excessive build up, parabens, more occlusive oils (like coconut oil), phthalates, synthetic fragrances, and sugars, salts, or other abrasives.
Hair Care for Dry Hair
ON THE LABEL: “low sudsing” or “non-sudsing” shampoos, “hydrating,” “sulfate-free,” “promotes shine,” “contains amino acids,” and “alcohol free.”
LOOK FOR: Oils like argan oil, jojoba oil, apricot oil, coconut oil, olive oil, or palm oil; shea butter, antioxidants (like vitamin E), hydrolyzed keratin, and silicones (like dimethicone).
AVOID WHEN POSSIBLE: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), isopropyl alcohol, triclosan, retinyl palmitate, propylene glycol, FD and C color pigments, Polyethylene Glycol (PEG), Chlorine, Diethanolamine (DEA), Monoethanolamine (MEA), and Triethanolamine (TEA), and FD & C color pigments.
Meet Our Experts
We're incredibly grateful to the following experts, four dermatologists and one ophthalmologist who gave us extensive and thoughtful notes in consultation on this very big project. We tapped them for their insight and expertise, and they more than delivered.
Dr. Lora Glass is an Assistant Professor of Ophthalmology at Columbia University Irving Medical Center, specializing in oculoplastic surgery, and is the founder of the Center for Periocular and Facial Dermatitis. She is also director of ophthalmic medical student education and Associate Residency Program Director in ophthalmology.
Dr. Michele S. Green is a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in cosmetic dermatology, lasers, and dermatologic surgery. A member of the American Academy of Dermatology and Skin Cancer Foundation, Dr. Green has been named among the “Best Doctors” in New York Magazine as a leader in the field of dermatology. She is affiliated with Northwell Health Lenox Hill Hospital and Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
Dr. Green graduated from Yale University and attended the Mount Sinai School of Medicine. In recent years, she has consulted for global skin care brands such as L'Oreal, Johnson and Johnson, Bioré and RoC on the research, development, and safety testing of worldwide product launches. This experience gave her the ability to develop her own line of specialty products called MGSKINLABS. Dr. Green has appeared in various magazines and on TV shows, and has published papers in professional journals including The Journal of American Academy of Dermatology and Cosmetic Dermatology where she has written about surgical reconstruction and treatment of malignant melanoma.
Dr. Pearl E. Grimes is a dermatologic expert and a leading international authority on vitiligo and pigmentation disorders. As the director of the Vitiligo and Pigmentation Institute of Southern California, she treats patients from all over the world who seek her expertise and patient care.
In her role as the director of the Grimes Institute for Medical and Aesthetic Dermatology, Dr. Grimes treats a wide range of dermatologic health and aesthetic concerns in patients of all ethnicities and skin types. She is a dedicated clinician, researcher, and speaker, lecturing on pigmentation disorders, cosmetic procedures, chemical peeling, fillers, and microdermabrasion. She also serves as a Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the David Geffen School of Medicine at UCLA. Dr. Grimes is also an accomplished author, having written over 100 professional articles, abstracts and two textbooks. In 2006, she also founded CARRY (Coalition for At-Risk Restoring Youth), a non-profit organization dedicated to improving the lives of at-risk and foster care youth.
Dr. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, specializing in cosmetic dermatology. She is the founder and director of Entière Dermatology, a medical and cosmetic dermatology practice in the Flatiron. She is a clinical instructor at New York University Langone Medical Center.
Dr. Levin has presented at professional meetings, teaching physicians as a trainer regarding cosmetic treatments including neuromodulators, fillers, and laser surgery, and is a consultant for multiple skincare companies. She serves as a reviewer for numerous medical journals and continues to perform clinical research trials for innovative laser devices and soft tissue enhancement of injectable fillers for aesthetics and acne. As a media expert, she shares her dermatology expertise to multiple media outlets.
Dr. Meena Singh is a board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon. She attended Harvard Medical School, trained at the Mayo Clinic, and completed a surgical fellowship in New York City. Upon completing a fellowship with the International Society for Hair Restoration Surgery, Dr. Singh trained in all areas of hair transplantation techniques including: strip excision, manual/motorized/robotic follicular unit extraction, as well as transplanting into scarring alopecias.
Dr. Singh specializes in medical treatments for hair loss of all cosmetic and medical types. She is passionate about treating skin of color. She has numerous publications in multiple peer-reviewed dermatology journals, book chapters, and has been published in the New England Journal of Medicine.
Originally Appeared on Self
