Days are getting shorter, temperatures will be cooling off and it’s time to start planting again.
Fall planting is a great idea. Plant perennials, shrubs and trees now. The soil is still warm but we are losing that intense summer heat.
Remember to water these transplants as necessary until the ground freezes. New plantings require a steady source of water as their roots are damaged and take time to return to normal efficiency.
Your fall plantings will have time to settle in and produce new roots well before the soil freezes for the winter. It is less stressful, with warm weather and fall rains, and the plants get a head start over those planted next spring. The result will be larger, more established plants, and probably more flowers and growth. The plants get that head start because when the spring plantings are getting over transplant shock and growing new roots, the fall plantings are ready to grow.
So, gather up all those pots you’ve accumulated over the summer, get in your fall planting orders, shop the end-of-season sales at local nurseries and start planting. Hold off on the bulbs though, they are best planted next month as you want them to grow roots, but not to have any upper leaf growth.
Don’t forget to start designing your fall display. Purchase asters, mums, kale — whatever suits your fancy for good fall color. Just be sure to determine which are hardy and which are intended for indoors or only limited display outside. This is most often a concern when deciding if mums are hardy or florist varieties. Find out before you buy to avoid disappointment.
Summer bulbs
Now is also time to start deciding which summer bulbs you intend to save.
The first to consider are the gladioli. Corms should be dug up, dried, cleaned — just to brush off loose soil — and stored as soon as the flowers fade and the stalks die back. Store the corms, loosely wrapped in paper or in mesh bags, in a dark, cool, frost-free area until next spring.
Another bulb that needs attention now is that amaryllis that you put outside for the summer. While you can leave it out well into October, if you want to have flowers in December, you need to act now. Stop watering the plants, move them somewhere that they won’t get rained on, and let the greens die back. When the greens brown up and dry, cut the stalks slightly above the top of the bulb. Then store your bulbs in a cool, dark, dry area until they restart growing, hopefully about 10 to 12 weeks before Christmas.
When you see new growth, move the bulbs out into the light and begin watering again. Remember to plant the bulbs with the upper third above the soil and in a pot only slightly larger than the bulb. I’ve noticed a design trend potting up bulbs in groups of three for this year. Sounds good and the larger pot should be a bit more stable than the usual single container. I, for one, have often had pots tip over when the stalks get long and bud up.
It’s still too early to worry about dahlias, cannas, and such. Most can be kept outside until the frosts blacken the greens. Dig these up after frost, allow to dry, cut dead greenery and store in the above-mentioned cool, dry and frost-free area.
This year, I planted a lot of caladiums — large leaves of white, pink, green and red, that filled my shady deck boxes with color. Caladiums are dug up after the foliage fades in the fall, since the plants are only hardy to Zone 9.
The recommendations I found indicated that the root ball should be lifted intact. Cut back the leaves and rinse the soil from the roots. Spread the tubers out to dry for about three weeks before attempting to store them. Check and discard any tubers that are soft and dust them with a powder fungicide before storing them. The ideal storage materials are light and dry — peat moss or wood shavings with plenty of room between tubers. Put in the previously mentioned cool, dark, dry and frost-free area, and check monthly for signs of fungus.
One final note on summer bulbs — you really don’t have to save them if you don’t want to. I try to because it seems like a practical, easy and money-saving thing gardeners should do, but if you change your plantings yearly, don’t have a good place to store them or, like me, just forget about saving them before they freeze, don’t feel guilty. You can get new ones next spring, and maybe you’ll save those.
Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.
Week in the Garden
Planting
Plant pansies for fall color and, if you select winter pansies, early spring blooms.
Asters and mums are available, buy now for best selection; use either in the garden or as part of a container display.
Sow seeds that require a cold period for germination; poppies are one example.
Plant perennials, shrubs and trees as the weather cools.
Hold bulbs until October.
Seasonal
Allow the final flush of flowers to go to seed. Many provide food for the birds and small mammals during the fall and winter.
Take cuttings of those annuals that you want to winter over or other favorite plants that have grown too big to move indoors.
Order asparagus, rhubarb, bulbs, flower and fruit plants, and shrubs for fall planting.
Shop nurseries for end-of-season bargains or new fall arrivals.
Weed often and cut off flowers of any weeds you don’t get pulled out.
Deadhead flowers and trim damaged, diseased, and dead foliage to keep beds tidy and encourage reblooming. In particular, keep irises and daylilies from forming seedpods.
Allow peony greens to grow until fall and then cut back.
Prune summer-flowering shrubs about two weeks after flowering.
Apply corn gluten-based weed control in the garden and establish a schedule for reapplication, usually at four- to six-week intervals.
Lawn
Seed, overseed, dethatch and aerate lawns September through mid-October.
Apply broadleaf weed control, September through mid October.
Install sod as the weather cools, September and October.
Treat for chinch bugs and sod webworms.
Purchase fertilizer and, if desired, apply now until mid-October.
Cut as needed, based on growth not schedule, to a height of about 2-to-3 inches tall. Use a sharp blade.
Keep newly seeded or sodded lawns watered; supplement rain in weeks where less than an inch.
Fill in holes and low spots in lawn. Apply corn gluten-based weed control in the garden; reapply at four-to six-week intervals.
Chores
Stop watering amaryllis bulbs. Allow the bulbs to dry out and go dormant. Store in a cool dry area until they resprout in about 8 to 10 weeks.
Start planning for fall. Order bulb and plants for early fall shipment.
Check seed inventory for late crops and fall planting.
Get plants ready to bring in. Repot those that need it and pot up those you want to winter over indoors.
Harvest crops regularly, at least every other day.
Dump standing water and remove anything that may collect rainwater to help control mosquito populations .
Water any recent plantings and containers anytime we experience a week with less than an inch of rain.
Repair damaged screens and caulking around windows and doors in preparation for the indoor invasion of wintering over insects and rodents.
Maintain deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents.
Clean and fill bird feeders regularly. Clean up spilled seed and empty hulls.
Dump, scrub and refill birdbaths at least once a week.
Clear gutters and direct rainwater runoff away from house foundations.
Tools, equipment, and supplies
Check winter/fall equipment, repair or replace as needed.
Safety
Clear lawns of debris before mowing and make sure pets, children and others are well away from the area being mown.
Store garden chemicals indoors away from pets and children. Discard outdated ones at local chemical collection events.
Photograph storm damage before clearing or repairing for insurance claims and file promptly.
Anytime you are outside and the temperatures are about 50 degrees F or warmer, watch for tick bites.
Use an insect repellent containing Deet on the skin.
Apply a permethrin product to clothing.
Wear light-colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long pants when working in the garden.
Stay hydrated. Drink water or other non-caffeinated, nonalcoholic beverages.
Even in cold weather, apply sunscreen, wear hats and limit exposure to sun.
Wear closed-toe shoes and gloves; use eye protection; and use ear protection when using any loud power tools.
