Travel

Take a Weekend Wine Trip to Oregon’s Willamette Valley

An easy drive from Portland will take you to one of the best under-the-radar wine destinations
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Vineyards in the Willamette Valley, Oregon.Photo: Clay McLachlan/Getty Images

Just an hour outside Portland, the Willamette Valley is home to 500 wineries spread out over 100 miles of rolling hills and quaint towns between the Cascade Mountains and the Coast Range. This under-the-radar region is giving Napa a run for its money, producing sophisticated Pinot Noirs, which thrive in the cool, dry climate. Oregonians will tell you that the number of vineyards has increased dramatically in recent years, though they’re still humble enough to be amazed that their wines are generating interest among restaurateurs and oenophiles all over the country. That’s part of the appeal for visitors—the winemakers are laid-back but extremely knowledgeable and eager to share their passion for wine. It’s easy to plan a day trip from Portland if you want to visit only a couple of wineries, but it’s worth it to stay for a weekend and delve deeper, taking your time to meander around the vines and gardens.

Where to Stay

The Allison Inn & SpaThe first true luxury hotel in the Willamette Valley, the Allison Inn & Spa is a LEED Gold–certified property set on 35 acres. The late owner, Joan Austin, whose family traces back to the Oregon Trail, refused to cut any corners when constructing the hotel, which opened in 2009. The result is a distinctly modern property with 85 spacious rooms and suites (the smallest room measures 490 square feet), an eco-conscious ethos (filtered water comes in glass bottles instead of plastic), manicured gardens, a world-class spa, and vineyards that produce grapes for the Allison’s own limited supply of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Paintings and sculptures by Oregonian artists grace the walls and grounds. From $405/night; theallison.com

McMenamins Hotel OregonThe historic Hotel Oregon in McMinnville dates from 1905 and retains the charm of that era. Rooms feature cotton bedding and original porcelain sinks, while black-and-white photos decorate the halls. There’s a pub on the main floor, but locals love the rooftop bar, which offers fantastic views of the surrounding landscape. From $95/night; mcmenamins.com

Where to Eat

JoryNamed for the Jory soil common in the area, the Allison Inn’s restaurant serves outstanding Pacific Northwest cuisine incorporating local, organic ingredients. Chef Sunny Jin, who cut his teeth at the French Laundry and El Bulli, uses fresh fruit, vegetables, and herbs grown in the property’s 1.5-acre garden. The menu changes often, so start with a glass of Willamette Valley sparkling wine and oysters caught off the Oregon coast and order whatever fresh seafood Chef Jin is serving. theallison.com

The Horse RadishThis quaint café in downtown Carlton is a great place to stop for lunch between wine tastings. The no-frills dining room has a handful of live-edge wood tables, where guests can relax and enjoy soups, salads, and made-to-order sandwiches on fresh-baked bread. thehorseradish.com

Where to Shop

Farmhouse RomanceThis charming little boutique in downtown Carlton sells clothes, accessories, and home decor items. The owner sources one-of-a-kind antique jewelry at estate sales and sells pieces by local jewelry designers. She also runs a small wine and grocery shop next door that focuses on Willamette Valley wines and local products, including Oregon cheddar, chocolate, and other sundries. farmhouseromance.com

Art ElementsRun by Loni Parrish, an artist, gallerist, and the daughter of the Allison Inn & Spa’s owners, this gallery in downtown Newberg carries colorful paintings, ceramics, and jewelry by local artists, some of whom have work displayed in the hotel. You’ll find vibrant, almost Impressionistic landscapes by Jackie McCartin, moody abstract paintings by James Frey, ceramic sculptures by Mark Terry, and more. artelementsgallery.com

What to Do

Sokol Blosser WineryOne of the most respected wineries in the Willamette Valley, Sokol Blosser is best known for its outstanding Pinot Noirs, though it also produces Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Müller-Thurgau. Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol Blosser were among the pioneering winemakers when they planted their first vines in 1971, and they continue to be leaders in sustainable, eco-conscious practices and organic farming. The winery is also one of the most architecturally interesting buildings in the area. Architect Brad Cloepfil—a native Oregonian and founding principal of Allied Works—designed it in 2013, when the family outgrew the original building. Stop by for a tasting with great views of the valley. sokolblosser.com

Stoller Family EstateSet amid the rolling Dundee hills, the 373-acre Stoller Family Estate produces Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Syrah wines using only estate-grown grapes and is a leader in sustainable building practices. The bright, airy tasting room constructed by architect Ernest R. Munch uses net zero energy thanks to top-of-the-line solar panels installed on the roof. Six wood columns were reclaimed from Powell’s Bookstore in Portland, and Douglas fir salvaged after a forest fire form the ceiling and siding. Outside on the terrace, Adirondack chairs and an array of tables provide ample seating for guests who’d like to relax while tasting the wines. stollerfamilyestate.com

Domaine Roy & FilsA tasting at Domaine Roy & Fils is a blissfully relaxed affair. Opt to sit outside on the terrace and a staff member will guide you through a tasting of Pinot Noirs while regaling you with the winery’s story, explaining the production process, and answering any questions you might have. The A-frame winery is modern yet rustic, with double-height windows providing excellent views of the valley below and enough space for intimate events and parties. Reservations are recommended if you plan to visit on busy weekends. domaineroy.com