You're Probably Using Your Skincare Products Wrong
When it comes to skincare routines, there are a lot—and we mean a lot—of possible steps to include. So many, in fact, that it's easy to get confused about exactly how, when, and how often to use certain skincare staples.
We’re talking about the basics: Do you really need to wash your face twice a day? How much vitamin C is too much? Is it possible to over-moisturize? Below, New York City-based dermatologist Marisa Garshick, M.D., sets the record straight.
How often do I really need to wash my face?
You already know that you should cleanse your complexion at night in order to wash away any excess oil, dirt, and bacteria that have accumulated throughout the day. But what about in the morning, when you first wake up? Turns out, it’s the same scenario. “Overnight, the skin can be exposed to additional oils from our hair, hair products, and general buildup on our pillows,” Dr. Garshick explains. “Particularly for those prone to breakouts, it is important to eliminate anything that can contribute to clogged pores.”
The verdict: Yes, twice per day is the golden rule for cleansing—especially during teenage years, when the skin is naturally oilier and more prone to breakouts.
Should I swap in a face scrub once in a while?
This question has a slightly more complicated answer, mostly because “some scrubs can be irritating on the skin and produce micro-tears that injure the skin's surface,” Dr. Garshick explains. That said, she recommends a general exfoliation rule of one to three times per week—either with a physical exfoliant (such as a face scrub) or a chemical one (such as glycolic acid).
The verdict: Exfoliate one to three times per week with either a chemical or a physical exfoliant, depending on your personal preferences. But don’t go overboard (AKA be gentle) on the actual scrubbing part.
Is moisturizing twice a day really necessary?
In short, yes—especially if you tend to have oily skin. Why? When skin lacks moisture, it naturally overcompensates and produces even more oil, creating a vicious cycle of dried out skin and an oil imbalance. This is why, generally speaking, everyone should apply a lightweight, non-comedogenic facial moisturizer onto clean skin twice per day.
The verdict: Yes. Opt for a lightweight, hydrating facial moisturizer that won’t clog your pores (i.e. is non-comedogenic), and apply it onto clean skin every morning and night.
How often should I use a retinoid?
“Oftentimes, teenage skin can benefit from a retinoid,” Dr. Garshick says, though in order to find the right one for your individual skin type and concerns, you’ll want to visit a board-certified dermatologist. They will also be able to advise on how frequently you should use it, but the general rule for retinoids is this: low and slow. Retinoids are very powerful ingredients—which is why they often work so well at clearing up and staving off breakouts—but using too much too soon can result in irritated, flaking skin.
The verdict: Follow your dermatologist’s instructions, which will likely be to start low and go slow; applying it every few days, working up to every other day or daily as your skin adjusts to the ingredient.
How often should I use acne spot treatments?
If pesky pimples are frequently the bane of your existence, then acne spot treatments are probably your go-to—and the good news is that you can use them as often as you wish. The top two acne-fighting ingredients in a spot treatment are benzoyl peroxide, which kills p. Acnes (the bacteria that causes acne), and salicylic acid, which increases skin cell turnover rate.
The verdict: Use acne spot treatments as needed—but never apply more product than is directed on the package, because it can dry out the skin.
Can vitamin C be applied every day?
With just about any skincare ingredient, consistency is key—and vitamin C is no exception. “I generally recommend that my patients use their vitamin C daily,” Dr. Garshick says. “Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps prevent free radical damage, so by using it daily you’re able to get consistent benefits.” One caveat: Not all vitamin C serums are created equal, so always follow the instructions on whichever product you choose.
The verdict: Yes. You’ll get the most out of your vitamin C if you use it every day.
Can I use face masks as often as I want to?
Who doesn’t love a good face mask? But how often you can use them and still get the benefits depends on the type of face mask. “Different face masks contain different ingredients, which ultimately determines the frequency,” Dr. Garshick explains. Clarifying face masks that target excess oil and acne (such as charcoal or clay-based masks) should generally be used less frequently than those that help replenish hydration (such as sheet masks).
The verdict: As a general rule of thumb, use clarifying or exfoliating face masks no more than once or twice per week. Hydrating face masks, including sheet masks, can be used more frequently—up to three times per week.
Do I need to be using a facial serum...at all?
Facial serums come in endless varieties, so the answer to this question depends largely on your particular skin type and concerns. If you have acne-prone skin, “considering serums that contain salicylic acid may be helpful,” Dr. Garshick says. On the flip side, if you tend to have dry skin, “a gentle, hydrating serum containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid may be helpful.” Unlike cleansing and moisturizing, using facial serums doesn’t have to be a daily thing—in fact, you can swap them in as needed.
“I often say that less is more,” Garshick says. “Meaning that if you keep your routine simple, you may be more likely to do it.”
The verdict: Facial serums can help address specific skin concerns—such as acne or dry skin—but they are not a necessary daily requirements. Use them as needed if you like them and feel like they’re helping your complexion.
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