If the post-lockdown fashion weeks in New York and London looked starkly different to what we’re used to, the Milan show schedule is heralding a return to (a new) normal for the fashion industry. The runway show is back.
What’s new?
Miuccia Prada is not one of the Milanese designers planning a return to the runway this season, but her collection with Raf Simons as co-creative director is still one of the most anticipated events on the schedule. The digital presentation will be unveiled on Thursday 24 September at 1pm GMT.
After skipping his men’s collection amid lockdown this summer, Pierpaolo Piccioli will present a co-ed runway show for Valentino – in Milan. For the Roman couture house, which traditionally shows in Paris, the relocation is temporary. The live-streamed show, which will have scaled-back physical attendance, takes place on Sunday 27 September at 1pm GMT.
Following the appointment of Kim Jones as artistic director for womenswear of Fendi, this season marks the last women’s collection under the sole creative direction of Silvia Venturini Fendi, who will still be in charge of accessories and menswear once Jones arrives. Fendi was originally planning to show in Rome but moved its plans to Milan, where the house will be staging a live-streamed runway show with limited attendance on Wednesday 23 September at 1pm GMT.
What’s live?
Next to Valentino and Fendi, a number of brands are staging live runway shows…
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were among the first designers in the world to return to the runway format – with guests – after the lockdown period. In July, they hosted an outdoor menswear show in aid of Covid-19 vaccine research, and in early September they took their Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria shows to Florence. True to tradition, they will present a runway show in Milan on Wednesday 23 September at 5pm GMT.
In July, Etro presented a small men’s runway show as part of the presentations in Milan. This week, the house is returning with a women’s show staged within the Etro Garden, a new installation in the courtyard of the Four Seasons Hotel. The show kicks off on Thursday 24 September at 5pm GMT.
Ian Griffith will host Max Mara’s return to the runway with a live-streamed show on Thursday 24 September at 8.30am GMT.
At Salvatore Ferragamo, Paul Andrew is joining in on the live action with a runway show taking place on Saturday 26 September at 6.30pm GMT.
What’s digital?
Along with Prada, here are the designers choosing the digital presentation format…
Giorgio Armani was the first designer to cancel attendance for his show after Covid-19 broke out in Milan during fashion week in February. This season, the most senior designer in the industry is sticking to the same procedure with digital shows for two lines. Giorgio Armani will be broadcast on Saturday 26 September at 8.15pm GMT, while Emporio Armani is scheduled for Thursday 24 September at 10.30am GMT.
Following her music video-style collection film for menswear in July, Donatella Versace will broadcast a show from behind closed doors with no audience. The show will be held on Friday 25 September at 5pm GMT.
Working with Jim Henson’s Creature Shop, the special effects company founded by puppeteer Henson, the creator of the Muppets, Jeremy Scott has produced a film for his Moschino show to be premiered on Saturday 26 September at 2.30pm GMT.
Starting this season, Marni will be dividing its season into two volumes – one and two – allowing for Francesco Risso to work within one creative process. After the release of Volume One in early September, Marni will host a digital presentation on Friday 25 September at 3pm GMT.
Alberta Ferretti will hold a classic runway show with an audience, live-streamed for those unable to attend. The show is scheduled for Wednesday 23 September at 4pm GMT.
For his live-streamed Philosophy runway show, Lorenzo Serafini is taking over the garden of La Vigna di Leonardo, one of the most beautiful locations in Milan. The show takes place on Saturday 26 September at 3pm GMT.
Teasing its digital presentation, MSGM sent out a blurry picture of an unidentified person with the words “A Portrait of a Generation” scrawled across it. More will be revealed on Sunday 27 September at 11am GMT.
GCDS has created a “virtual reality fashion arcade” for its digital presentation. Made available to all through the brand’s website, the format will take audiences through a backstage area, a game room, a bar and a show space, allowing viewers to win prizes and interact with VIP guests. The presentation is scheduled for Thursday 24 September at 7pm GMT.
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