There is a fish that goes by many an alias. European bass, capemouth, sea perch, loup de mer, temperate bass and king of the mullets, amongst its many AKAs.
Native to the Mediterranean, it can also be found in the Eastern Atlantic from Norway to Senegal, and even in the Black Sea.
Fished and raised commercially, it’s considered to be the most important fish currently cultured in the Mediterranean. They thrive in the Mediterranean, but over the years the population has declined due to over fishing. Fisheries throughout its native region have taken to farm-raising to help prevent over fishing.
A night-hunting species that weighs up to about three pounds, it’s an ideal dish for two. When you can find those at one to two pounds you can prepare individual fish and serve whole, which is the classic presentation.
I’ve enjoyed this light, slightly sweet, flakey and highly sought-after white fish many times during my “Let’s Go Cook” travels over the years. I often wonder if the fact that they feed on prawns and crabs (in addition to smaller fish), is what gives them such a special and distinctive flavor.
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Not being able to journey abroad this year, due to all of the travel restrictions and concerns, I find myself craving some of the foods I’ve come to love on my travels. This raises the question, can I find it here? If I tell you about it, would it only be a tease or would you be able to actually enjoy it locally? My hunt began and ended at Osprey’s at 1014 Wine Country Ave. in Napa.
One simply has to know the alias to ask for here in North America, “branzino.” This is what I’ve known them to be called on menus in Italy.
According to Osprey staff member Adam, they regularly offer “branzino. It is typically priced at $9.95 per pound, which includes scaling, gutting and boning. It’s best to call ahead, or call to order, especially if you would like to purchase several so that each diner has their own fish. The average weight per fish offered at Osprey is one pound.
Traditionally, branzino are cooked whole by grilling, baking or steaming. Yes, leave the heads on; it’s tradition after all. It’s nearly impossible to end up with dry, overcooked fish when cooking it whole. The bones actually protect against extreme heat, and add flavor and moisture to the finished dish.
The mildness of branzino allows the ingredients you mix it with in preparation to impart a multitude of flavor profiles. Go Asian using lemon grass and or chili’s, or the more classic Mediterranean style using fennel and tomatoes.
I so enjoy the flavor of the branzino itself that I simply stuff it with lemon, fresh herbs and brush it with some great authentic extra virgin olive oil and bake at 325 degrees for about 25 minutes and then allow it to rest for 5 minutes before serving with a garnish of citrus slices and more fresh herbs.
If you enjoy steaming your fish, season with plenty of freshly squeezed lemon juice and herbs or a dry rub. Cooked fish can also be easily flaked into a dish before serving. Since it flakes into small chunks, branzino can be used in casseroles, stews, pasta, and other one-pot meals. This being said, I want the full fish flavor of the branzino, so I don’t combine with too many other ingredients. But that’s just me.
When planning a branzino dinner, remember that fresh fish should be refrigerated for only up to 2 days. After that time, wrap tightly in plastic and freeze for maximum freshness. My theory — fresh is best.
Nutritionally, one pound of branzino is just under 300 calories, high in omega-3 fatty acids and fish oils. Rich in antioxidants, it’s also packed with protein.
When prepared simply, branzino can be overwhelmed by big, New-World style white wines. I have found it to pair perfectly with the crisp Italian white, Vermentino.
One of my friends in Italy, and I miss them all right now, shared this recipe with me. Grazie mille, Mario.
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon capers, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped
Sea salt—to taste
4 1- to 1 1/4 lb. whole branzino, scaled and gutted
1 lemon, sliced into 8 rounds
4 large sprigs rosemary
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a medium bowl, mix butter, capers, lemon juice, parsley and salt. Set aside at room temperature.
Season branzino cavities with salt and stuff 2 lemon rounds and 1 rosemary sprig into each.
In large, nonstick, oven proof skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Do not allow to begin to smoke. Add 2 branzino and cook over high heat until the skin is browned and crisp, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer branzino to a large rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and 2 stuffed branzino. Roast the fish in the oven for about 10 minutes, until just cooked through.
Serve whole and piping hot, passing the caper butter at the table so that each person can garnish their individual branzino.
Mangia bene.
Diane De Filipi lives in the Napa Valley and leads cooking tours to Italy and Burgundy, France. Visit letsgocookitalian.com or letsgocookleboncuisine.com for more information.