Tasting Ardbeg Beer And Three New Whisky Expressions From Islay’s Iconic Distillery

Ardbeg is one of Islay’s iconic distilleries. It dates back to the early 19th century. Its core range exhibits the distinctive smoke, char and medicinal character that is typical of Islay’s peated whisky style. Recently, the distillery announced that it was adding a namesake beer to its lineup. Named Shortie, after the Jack Russel terrier that is the distillery’s mascot, the beer is a smoky porter that share’s Ardbeg whisky’s DNA.

The project was created with Brewgooder, a charity committed to supporting clean water projects in Malawi. It was supposed to launch on March 22, World Water Day, but it was delayed by the COVID-19 pandemic. All profits from the sale of Ardbeg beer will be donated to Brewgooder.

Beer and whisky, after all, are kindred spirits that follow similar production processes. The fermented wort, technically called wash, is often referred to as beer by distillers. Both beer and whisky are often made from the same three ingredients: water, malted barley and yeast.

In both cases, the barley is malted and, after it has started to germinate, it’s kilned and ground. The ground malt, called grist, is then mixed with hot water in a mash tun in order to extract the sugars. The resulting liquid, called wort, is then fermented into beer or, in the case of whisky, wash. The only significant difference is that brewers add hops to the wort prior to fermentation. Distillers skip the hopping and go right to fermentation.

Beer casks and whisky casks have been used by both industries to “finish” their respective beverages. The Glenfiddich Experimental Series and Jameson Caskmates expressions are both finished in casks that previously held beer. In Belgium, Brouwerij de Dochter van de Korenaar, uses casks from Ardbeg to create peat notes in its beer. According to Mickey Heads, Ardbeg distillery manager:

“…any whiskyphile worth their malt will tell you, beer and whisky share the same DNA. Just like brewers, we ferment our malt. The only difference being, we hold on to the hops.” 

The beer was brewed at Williams Brothers Brewing Company (Heather Ale Ltd.) a family owned microbrewery in Alloa, and utilizes the same peated malt used by the distillery for the production of its Ardbeg 10 YO expression.

The beer is described by its creators as having a “peat bog brown” color and has an ABV of 6.2%. Combined with the classic Ardbeg 10 YO, the combination might be an Ardbeg enthusiast’s ultimate boilermaker.

Dr. Bill Lumsden, Director of Whisky Development at Ardbeg and at its sister distillery Glenmorangie, described the porter as “smooth and creamy” and “distinctly smoky.” Brenden McCarron, Glenmorangie’s Director of Maturing Whisky Stocks, described the smoky character of the porter as not the medicinal, cold smoke of Ardbeg whisky but more of a tar and coal dust smoke.

The beer is only available at the distillery’s gift store or online at Ardbeg.com. A six-pack sells at retail for around $20. You'll have to make it to Great Britain, if not Islay, if you want a taste, however, as the website only delivers to UK addresses.

Below are tasting notes supplied by the distillery:

Nose: On the nose, Ardbeg’s distinctive peat gives rise to more oily notes intermingled with sour cherries, rich coal tar and pine. Ardbeg’s malt then begins to reveal itself, with aromas of toasted nuts and sweet lemon and lime.

Palate: On the palate, this smoky porter boasts a typically creamy texture, with bitter dark chocolate, malty biscuit, dry espresso coffee and a hint of liquorice.

Finish: In a finish that lingers long beyond the can, delicious and distinctively smoky notes guide the palate towards the bitter end.

Frustrated you can’t get your hands on Ardbeg’s beer? No worries. Here are three new expressions of Ardbeg whisky that will tide you over instead.

Ardbeg, Wee Beastie, 5 YO, 47.4% ABV, 750 ml, ARP $49

Wee Beastie is among the youngest Ardbeg whiskies ever released. On the nose, it offers a pronounced aroma of peat, green vegetative notes, black pepper and a hint of vanilla along with slight apple and pear notes. There is a noticeable briny quality, like a beach exposed at low tide, that is typical of Ardbeg. The peat notes are earthier, more like dried compost and brush than the pronounced cold smoke, char and medicinal notes typical of other Ardbeg expressions.

On the palate, the whisky is sweet, with a distinctive oily character. There a notes of lemon zest, some faint tropical fruit notes of roasted plantain, baked pears, dark chocolate and caramel fudge, along with vegetative notes of green moss and anise, bacon, some tar and the unmistakable aroma of asphalt on a hot summer’s day. The finish is long and briny, with notes of white pepper and dried fruits and a lingering medicinal element.

Wee Beastie is a classic example of a young Ardbeg, but it is smooth and very drinkable.

Ardbeg, Supernova 2019, NAS, 53.8% ABV, 750 ml, ARP $374

The last Ardbeg Supernova, the fourth expression to bear that name, was released in 2015, and has been unavailable for several years. The 2019 expression is a limited release. Per the distillery, “one more brief and shattering return” in the same style as the original Supernova. This is among the peatiest Ardbeg available. The whisky does not carry an age statement (NAS), and packs a powerful 53.8% cask strength ABV. It was aged in a combination of ex-bourbon and Sherry casks.

On the nose, there is a pronounced aroma of peat smoke, along with candied sweetness and a distinctive briny note in the background. As the whisky opens up notes of citrus zest and some tropical and green fruit notes emerge.

On the palate, there is a noticeable mouth coating oily quality, with a pronounced palate weight. The whisky is creamy, sweet, with distinctive cold smoke and wood char notes and a fruity character, along with anise, some mint, vanilla and taffy. There is a pronounced pepper note that fades quickly. For a cask strength whisky, the alcohol is remarkably smooth and well integrated. The finish is long, with a lingering fruity sweetness and smoky note.

Ardbeg Blaaack Committee Edition, 50.7% ABV, 700 ml, ARP $226

The Ardbeg Blaaack, was originally intended for release on Ardbeg Day 2020, historically the last day of the annual Fèis Ìle, Islay’s Festival of Music and Malt. This year it was a virtual celebration due to the COVID-19 pandemic. This expression is the “Committee Edition,” and was exclusive to the Ardbeg fan club, named The Committee, of over 120,000 Ardbeg enthusiasts. The whisky commemorates the 20th anniversary of The Committee. There is a second version, intended for general release, bottled at 46% ABV. The whisky was matured in casks previously used for New Zealand Pinot Noir. 

The label features a sheep, a reference to the New Zealand origins of the barrels used for maturation since there are five sheep or more for every New Zealand citizen. Rumor has it that the triple a in Blaaack, is a reference to “baa,” the sound made by bleating sheep.

On the nose, there is the requisite peat smokiness you have come to expect from Ardbeg, along with a note of cooked cereal porridge. The smoke has an oily, meaty character to it, like the aroma from an old smoker, think smoked bacon or jerky. There are red berry notes, strawberry and raspberry mostly, presumably the contribution of the Pinot Noir casks, along with elements of vanilla, honey and fruit.

On the palate, there is the candied sweetness typical of Ardbeg, along with notes of cooked cereal and fruit, a bit of anise, some slight medicinal notes and a hint of brine. Some mild pepperiness emerges toward the end. The finish is long and smooth, with a lingering sweetness, along with some pepper and fruit notes.

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