Although hog frying was not inherently part of the Cherokee culture at one time, it is now.

Vince Feeling, with Cherokee Nation Community and Cultural Outreach, held a presentation on the culinary tradition of the hog fry Thursday, and discussed its place in Cherokee culture. Feeling said while the Cherokees may not have started the trend, they perhaps perfected it.

“Frying food originated – some people say – in ancient Egypt, and pigs were actually brought over by – some people say – Spanish explorers,” he said. “But I like to picture it as this: Even though those Spaniards were eating pork and they saw that it was delicious, it was the Cherokees who had to come, put it in grease, fry it, and find out it was 20 times better.”

Cooking good food isn’t the only reason for a hog fry. It’s an opportunity for people to spend time with friends and family. Feeling said people not only share food, but they share stories, traditions and talents.

“A lot of times, when you go to hog fries, there may be traditional games played and there might even be traditional stories told,” he said. “There’s usually a gospel singing that could be found around here.”

As with those who are used to cooking with cast-iron skillets, the first thing that needs to be done for a hog fry is to season the pot with a thin coat of oil, grease or lard. It’s burned off, which helps sterilize it, and then the pot is ready to use.

There’s no particular cut of meat necessary to use. Feeling said back in the day, it was common for people to butcher hogs for frying, but it was hard work that he doesn’t miss. Now he usually just goes to a local grocery store and picks up a Boston butt pork shoulder, but he said the pork could be either boneless or bone-in.

“You just kind of cut it up into about 2-inch cubes. It doesn’t have to be exact, but the reason you cut it up is because it cooks evenly, instead of just throwing the whole roast in there,” he said.

Some Cherokees use propane and some use wood fires to cook their pork. Before putting the meat in, the cooks will add lard, shortening, or a mixture of water and lard to the pot. When it starts to boil, the grease is hot enough to add the meat.

“I don’t use thermometers and I don’t use temperature gauges; I just go by sight and sound,” Feeling said. “As soon as you put the meat in, it’s going to want to turn white. It’s not really appetizing right now, but it’s going to turn white because it has a lot of water in it. The water has got to cook out before the meat actually starts frying.”

Depending on how much hog is being cooked, it could take anywhere from two to three hours to finish. Once the meat is in the pot, it’s time for the chef to kick back. All the cook has to do is keep an eye on the pot and stir it every now and then, while talking with people, telling jokes, and just socializing.

Feeling said it’s important not to rush the process, and to enjoy the time with friends and family while the hog is frying.

“You never know what you’re going to hear at a hog fry,” Feeling said. “It doesn’t matter whether you’re with family, at your church, or cooking for somebody else, there’s always a fun time to be had when the meat is actually cooking.”

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