Review

Minari, review: a gentle restoration of faith in the American Dream

Lee Isaac Chung’s tender story is a finely-observed portrait of family relations and rural American values

Batting for America: Minari follows a Korean-American family settling in the Ozarks
Batting for America: Minari follows a Korean-American family settling in the Ozarks Credit: Melissa Lukenbaugh 
  • Dir: Lee Isaac Chung. Cast: Steven Yeun, Yeri Han, Alan Kim, Noel Cho, Youn Yuh-jung, Darryl Cox. No cert, 115 mins

As well as being the title of Lee Isaac Chung’s new film, Minari - for which Youn Yuh-jung won supporting actress Oscar and Bafta awards - is the Korean name for a peppery, watercress-like vegetable that can play an invaluable role in any number of dishes, and can thrive in even the soggiest, least promising ground. As a metaphor for the immigrant experience, it’s both picturesque and sturdily no-nonsense, which is also a neat summing-up of Chung’s breakthrough feature overall. 

Though Minari will be made available to cinemas when they reopen next month, its status as a major contender in the current awards season make a lockdown release a no-brainer. So here it is, available to rent and stream at home one week before the Baftas, at which it’s in the running for six prizes – then another six at the Oscars, two weeks after that. Fortunately, it’s performed and crafted with a tenderness that lends itself to small-screen viewing – it’s the kind of film that’s attuned to the small, here-and-now details of its characters’ lives, from the stickiness of old wooden drawers to the wisps of steam that rise from freshly ploughed ground.

Heavily inspired by its director’s own upbringing in rural Arkansas in the 1980s, it follows a Korean family who are putting down roots into what father Jacob (Steven Yeun) hopefully describes as “the best dirt in America”: a five-acre plot of Ozark grassland which he hopes to develop into a farm 10 times that size. Jacob’s wife Monica (Yeri Han) is less optimistic, and her fears are hardly allayed when she sets eyes on their new house, which resembles a large Kit-Kat finger on wheels, held in place by breeze blocks.

“Don’t be like that,” her husband says reassuringly, before hoisting her up and across the chest-height threshold. After all, the couple and their preposterously angelic offspring, seven-year-old David (Alan Kim) and his older sister Anne (Noel Cho), have much to be getting on with. There’s a well to dig, a field to till and plant, locals to befriend, plus a spare room to make up for Monica’s elderly mother Soonja (Youn Yuh-jung), a tough old bird who’s flying in from Korea to – theoretically – help out.

Minari is a multi-generational affair, but Chung keeps it earthed to young David’s perspective, with most scenes bathed in the kind of crisp, honeyed light in which our vivid childhood memories so often seem to unfold. Both David and Anne are keenly aware – at least in a broad, innocent sense – of the pressure this make-or-break project is putting on their parents’ marriage, and during a night-time argument the pair make paper aeroplanes with “don’t fight” scrawled in crayon on their flanks, then send them gliding into the living room. 

Small, seemingly formative experiences feel just right – such as the moment during a walk in the woods when David spots a snake and tries to shoo it away, before his grandmother warns him that hidden dangers pose a far greater threat than the ones slithering past in plain sight. David himself has a heart murmur, which is a further source of anxiety for his parents, and also one of perhaps a smidge too many symbolically loaded subplots that the ostensibly low-key narrative keeps diligently spinning away.

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The cast’s performances are all so beautifully observed that you may end up wishing the film had given their characters a few more moments of quiet: one of the most purely enjoyable scenes unfolds in the aftermath of a local church service, where the children uneasily strike up some friendships, Monica makes small talk, Jacob looks on awkwardly, and Soonja unsubtly marvels at the natives’ girth. This elderly lady represents the old country at its most irrepressible – and David, the first American-born member of the clan, and with the little cowboy boots to show it, doesn’t appreciate what he impudently describes as her “Korean smells”. 

Meanwhile in the middle, Jacob and Monica find themselves at the tipping point between two very different existences, and while the film’s style is melodrama-averse, we’re left in no doubt of exactly how much is at stake. Yeun is especially good: a movie star-in-the-making who was last seen in the spectacular 2018 neo-noir Burning, he winningly captures Jacob’s good-humoured stoicism, then cuts through it with flashes of frustration and despair that make you ache on his behalf.

A fiery dramatic climax feels a little conventional and over-engineered, but that’s partly because the story told in Minari is all beginning – the opening chapter of an American immigrant epic which goes otherwise untold. That delicately kindled open-endedness is what keeps Chung’s film turning over in your own memory. Long after the land itself has been settled, the settling in goes on.

Available via VoD from tomorrow

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