Los Olivos’ red chile chicken enchiladas with rice, beans and sliced avocado. (Richard S. Dargan/For the Journal)
Albuquerque's restaurant community suffered a devastating loss recently when Rosario Zito, beloved owner of Giovanni's Pizzeria in the International District, was killed during an armed robbery at his restaurant. Zito's death is yet another setback for a neighborhood still referred to by many as the "War Zone." Despite the efforts of community leaders and residents, the violent crime that has plagued this area for decades shows no signs of abating. If there is a reason for optimism in this neighborhood, it can be found in a vibrant dining scene exemplified by places like Los Olivos, the 3-year-old Mexican restaurant on Zuni south of Central. Los Olivos occupies a one-story building that looks more like a home than a restaurant. The stucco walls are painted olive-green and colorful pennants decorate the whitewashed porch. Inside is equally vibrant, with walls of violet and green and colorful papel picados, the intricate, punched paper decorations of Mexico, hanging from the ceiling. A covered patio sits just off the main dining room. The food at Los Olivos celebrates the cuisine of Durango, a landlocked state in northwestern Mexico known for its meats, cheeses and rich, flavorful broths.
