If you’ve ever wondered how A-listers like Jennifer Aniston maintain their perennially sleek and shiny hair, the answer probably lies in a keratin treatment. Also known as a Brazilian blow dry, a keratin treatment is many people’s preferred way of getting sleeker, straighter, frizz-free hair on a more long-term basis. To find out everything you need to know about the treatment, and what to expect if you opt for it, Vogue spoke to keratin expert and colourist Damian Gray, who’s based at London salon Hershesons.
What does a keratin treatment do to the hair?
A keratin treatment involves applying keratin – a protein that naturally occurs in hair – and other chemicals to the hair in order to seal the cuticle and stop frizz-inducing moisture from getting trapped inside. “It’s a smoothing service that will de-frizz and smooth the hair shaft to create a silky, shiny result,” explains Gray. Which is good news if your current styling regime takes longer than you would like. “It will cut down styling time by 40 to 60 per cent.”
Is there anything a keratin treatment won’t do?
Most people who opt for keratin treatments do so because it makes hair that’s prone to frizz more manageable, but it has its limits. “It’s not to be mistaken for a permanent straighten,”points out Gray. “[It] will still maintain natural textures and shape, [just] with a smoother finish.” It can be a good alternative to relaxers for neutral and textured hair, because it will temporarily loosen the curl pattern without being as harsh as a relaxer.
What does a keratin treatment involve?
The treatment is done in the salon, and involves applying a high concentration keratin solution to freshly washed hair. The treatment is then heat-sealed into the hair shaft with a straightener. How long the process takes depends on how long and thick your hair is, but you should set aside anywhere between two and four hours for your visit.
What results can you expect from a keratin treatment?
“The results can change depending on the natural texture,” explains Gray. “This is why it’s important to talk with your stylist about the results that you may get from the treatment. You will notice a definite decrease in fluff and frizz. If your hair is naturally curly, the curl pattern may be slightly looser. And for wavy or straight hair types with frizz, [the hair] will just sit a lot flatter and a lot smoother.”
How long should the results last?
Keratin treatments affect different hair types differently, but how often you wash it, style it and expose it to other chemical and heat processes will impact the treatment’s longevity. “Depending on the treatment used and how often you’re cleansing your hair, it can range from two to five months,” says Gray. “If you’re cleansing your hair once a week you should notice benefits up to five to six months. If you’re cleansing your hair daily you will only notice benefits for about [around] two months.”
Is there a limit to how many you can have?
While there’s no limit, it’s important to bear in mind that you’re putting your hair through a chemical process, and that should always be approached with a little caution. It’s also worth bearing in mind that you won’t need to repeat the treatment that often, as the results should last. “I would recommend only having them when you notice the benefits are fading,” says Gray.
Do keratin treatments damage the hair?
Exposing your hair to anything that involves chemicals or heat will always impact the hair, but a keratin treatment shouldn’t damage your hair. “The only note I have from some clients is that it may feel slightly dry after the treatment, which is why it’s nice to use a deep conditioning mask post treatment,” says Gray. Olaplex’s No.8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask is a great option here.
What products are good to use alongside a keratin treatment?
Using a heat protection spray after you’ve had a treatment (and any time you use heat on your hair) is important, as too much heat can reduce its effects. Try Color Wow Dream Coat Supernatural Spray. Gray points out that it’s also important to use a sulphate-free shampoo when you wash your hair after you’ve had a keratin treatment applied, because sulphate can wash keratin out from the hair and reduce its efficacy. We like Pureology’s Hydrate Shampoo.
Do keratin treatments have a cumulative effect?
Keratin treatments can’t change the fundamental structure of your hair but they can create long-lasting textural changes which will stay put during the hair’s growth cycle. “A lot of my clients say that [the hair] never goes back to the same frizzy texture that it was before,” notes Gray.
