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As the sun sets on summer 2020, the world resets its style; bikinis are traded for sweater sets, and those trendy flip flop heels replaced by ankle boots. The shift carries over into beauty, where the cooler weather permits increased variety and greater expression. When it comes to fragrance, autumn is one of the best times to experiment. Sure, all those refreshing spritzes and lightweight colognes were great for a trip to the beach, but fall allows for scents that are an experience unto themselves.
Heady, full-bodied fragrances provide a feast for the senses. Notes like amber, tobacco, incense, and leather would be too much for summer, but they feel just right in fall. The season calls for decadent gourmands, intoxicating florals, and chypres brimming with woodsy goodness. This year's best of the bunch range from avant-garde blends that reference classic art to vintage-inspired perfumes that revel in the thrill of dressing up.
Byredo Tobacco Mandarin
As sweater weather approaches, there's nothing better than the feeling of warmth that comes from within. Byredo's latest addition to its Night Veils line of perfume extracts does precisely that. Tobacco Mandarin projects the smoldering intensity of tobacco leaves without conjuring thoughts of smoke breaks. It starts with a burst of mandarin and coriander then gradually fades into something more profound. Leather accord, sandalwood, and a touch of oud wood round things out for a scent that brings the heat.
Vilhelm Parfumerie Body Paint
Every fragrance in Jan Ahlgren's line, Vilhelm Parfumerie, connects with a historical reference and a bit of cheeky imagery. Henri Matisse's La Danse, a work the painter referred to as "the overpowering climax of luminosity," serves as the starting point for Body Paint. Perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato's interpretation of Matisse's image of nude dancers reveling in an outdoor romp is wholly original: It channels the painting's buoyant energy through vegetative notes like pear, lemon, and red pepper, which create a hot-cold contrast that evolves.
Dior J’adore eau de Parfum Infinissime
When the original J'Adore launched in 1999, it caused a sensation thanks to its sexy exploration of rose and ylang-ylang, plus that now-iconic bottle. 21 years later, the man behind the original, perfumer François Demachy, has created a new version of the scent that reflects 2020's tastes. Florals are still the focus—tuberose direct from Grasse is now the centerpiece—but Demachy's addition of pink peppercorn, blood orange, and sandalwood provide counterpoints, thanks to a distinctly modern burst of fruit and aromatic wood.
Atelier des Ors Lune Feline
The first thing you'll notice about the French house Atelier des Ors is their commitment to luxury. Each bottle from the brand is filled with flecks of 24-karat gold leaf, making them glamorous objets d'art. Once you’re done admiring the packaging, the scents are heady and complex. Lune Féline, their mouthwatering gourmand scent, has all the foodie notes you'd expect from the category—cinnamon, cardamom, and vanilla are all present—but it's refined and elegant instead of stereotypically sweet.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian L'Homme À la Rose
The idea of a product suitable for only one gender is passé, but in the world of fragrance certain elements are still tied to specific groups. Rose, with its romantic connotations, is seldom marketed towards men. Francis Kurkdjian has created numerous interpretations of the flower within his eponymous line and the work he's done for other brands. Still, with L'Homme À la Rose , the master perfumer goes in a new direction. Damascus and Centifolia roses shine in this bright, zesty scent, but so does grapefruit. L'Homme À la Rose is a winning choice for anyone looking to try a bold new take on one of the most familiar notes.
Acqua di Parma Colonia Futura
Acqua di Parma's latest release embodies fall's crispness and all its outdoorsy associations. Colonia Futura is an all-natural take on the house's signatures: Clary sage and vetiver combine with lemon for a bracing experience not unlike a long walk through the changing leaves. It's great for those unexpected mid-season heatwaves, or those days when you need refreshing tonic.
Juliette Has a Gun Lipstick Fever
After a summer spent wearing cutoffs and bikinis, autumn is the perfect time to fall back in love with getting dressed. The spirit of getting ready for a night out is captured perfectly by Juliette Has a Gun's Lipstick Fever. If you've ever caught a whiff of vintage makeup and its touches of iris and violet, you know exactly the mood this creation is channeling. Mixed in with the retro notes are healthy doses of raspberry and patchouli essence to keep things interesting.
Parfums de Marly Greenley
There's more than one way to embrace a stronger scent. Parfums de Marly's Greenley has an invigorating freshness that would be appropriate for summer, but its impressive sillage makes it work year-round. A burst of green apple and mandarin kicks things off before the scent becomes an exploration of cashmere woods. Petitgrain, oakmoss, and musk complete the journey into green, clean territory.
Kilian Angel's Share
Admit it, 2020 has you craving a stiff drink. While you could indulge in a cocktail, Kilian has the next best thing for teetotalers. The brand's new liquor collection nods to the olfactive pleasures of cognac and gin. The headier scent, Angel's Share, adds cinnamon, praline, and tonka bean to create a decadent concoction. Simultaneously, its lighter counterpart, Roses on Ice, focuses on floral, musk, and the sparkle of juniper berries. Given that founder Kilian Hennessy's family is the world's premier cognac distiller, the fragrances accurately represent both spirits' boozy fun without any hangovers or bad decisions.
Floraiku AO
Technically figs aren't fruits (they're inverted flowers), but that doesn't stop them from being delectable, and their scent gives Floraiku's AO its tangy redolence. At first spritz, the smell is green with hints of mandarin. Over time, it makes a 180, the rich notes of myrrh and sandalwood coming to the forefront as it dries down. The brand's charming packaging adds to the fun—inspired by haiku and Japanese tradition, each fragrance is packaged in a reusable bento box—but the juice would be enticing even if it arrived in a carton.
Hermetica Sandalsun
Judge solely by name, and you might expect Hermetica's latest, SandalSun, to focus on beach vibes. Not so! The creamy gourmand is as sweet as that Pumpkin Spice Latte you're craving—but twice as sophisticated. A warm blend of sandalwood, hazelnut, and vanilla is a cozy creation that feels as good as it smells. Bonus for the eco-conscious: Hermetica's clean fragrance focus means that the blend is alcohol-free, utilizes natural ingredients, and each purchase goes towards the planting of a new tree.
Aerin Ambrette de Noir
Few things are as stimulating as the scent of incense floating through the air. Warm, enveloping, and sensual, it's been an essential part of perfumery for hundreds of years. The note is at the heart of Ambrette de Noir, an impossibly sexy floral that blends white florals, musk, and ambrette seeds. The flowers are pretty, but its deep and decadent mix of cedarwood, incense, and benzoin makes this a standout.
Louis Vuitton Heures d'Absence
Nothing beats a throwback. When Louis Vuitton launched its first fragrance, Heures d’Absence, in 1927, it reflected the spirit of the era, much to the delight of jazz babies and flappers. Flash forward 93 years and Vuitton's master perfumer, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, has reinterpreted the blend for a modern audience. With its global bouquet of Sambac Jasmine from China, May Rose from Grasse, and Tanneron from the hills of Provence, the scent evokes the jet-setting “have monogram luggage will travel” spirit of the heritage brand.
The Harmonist Sun Force
The Harmonist’s fragrance philosophy centers on the idea of balance, using scent to increase well-being and improve the mood. Moon Glory, the first scent in the brand’s prequel collection, focused on lunar yin energy, so naturally its complement is all about yang and the sun’s radiance. An uplifting combination of Hawaiian pompelo, saffron, and honey, it provides one of the things everyone could use more of in 2020: good vibes.
Memo Paris Winter Palace
If you’ve ever curled up with a warm drink on a chilly day, you'll understand the appeal of Memo Paris’s enveloping Winter Palace. Centered on a red tea note, the scent—which also combines maté, amber, and Gurjum balsam—is as cozy and inviting as a good cup of rooibos. Inspired by the myths associated with dragons and the experience of walking through a market full of fragrant varieties, it’s a tribute to tea culture and all its relaxing associations.