Taking The (Johnny)Cake: Kenyon's Recovering From Big E Snub

USQUEPAUGH, RI — After more than 300 years, Kenyon's Grist Mill grinds on. The family-run business is getting back to normal after a flood of media attention brought in donations and a groundswell of public attention.

The historic mill has seen an outpouring of support from the community since the announcement that they would not be at this year's Big E, owner Paul Drumm III said. After more than 60 years, the South County standby was not invited back to serve up their clam cakes and chowder in the Rhode Island building, a decision that was made by the state's Commerce Corporation.

The Big E, one of the mill's largest annual moneymakers, dealt a devastating blow to the already-struggling business. In the weeks since, the Rhode Island community has banded together, with the sudden media exposure launching the centuries-old grist mill into the spotlight.

"We've had a rough go over the past few years," Drumm said at this weekend's fall open house.

In the wake of the Big E decision, Drumm said the top priority has been to get the business "back onto an even keel," while also managing day-to-day operations.

"People have been really lovely," Drumm said of the response from the community. Since the announcement, the mill has seen an uptick in visitors and sales, as well as a healthy crowd at this weekend's fall open house.

"Yesterday was absolutely packed, and we're seeing a slightly smaller crowd today," Drumm said Sunday afternoon.

At the open house, visitors had the chance to tour the centuries-old grist mill, seeing for themselves how the Drumms mill the corn that becomes johnnycake meal, clam cake mix and more. Out in the yard, the public could then sample the delicious chowder, clam cakes and johnnycakes the mill is famous for.

For those unfamiliar with the dish, johnnycakes are like a cross between a sturdy corn muffin and a pancake: dense, flat cakes with a slightly gritty texture and a unique flavor. The not-too-sweet, not-too-savory cakes pair well with bacon, seafood or a healthy serving of maple syrup, making for the perfect breakfast for dinner standby.

The largest surprise, Drumm said, was the launch of a GoFundMe page, titled "Save Kenyon's."

"I don't even know the person who started it!" Drumm said.

To date, the page has raised more than $15,000 of its $50,000 goal.

The mill also partners with businesses around Rhode Island, providing flour to bakers including Belmont bakery, Berri in Providence and other restaurants.

Drumm said his father described their family as "the caretakers of tradition." He said he loves when people come into the shop and share their stories and connections to the mill, which has operated since 1696. This makes the mill the oldest manufacturing business in Rhode Island and the second-oldest continuously operating business in the state.

"It's great to hear the stories," Drumm said.

Learn more about the grist mill or purchase purchase products online through Kenyon's website.

Note: GoFundMe is a Patch promotional partner.